Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts are located near Blaxland, 10min past Penrith in Western Sydney.

Lenso DC6 rims in black. Perfect used condition, not one scratch on them. 18" x 8.5", 35 offset, 114.3 x 5 PCD Fitted to 32GTR. They'll come with center caps shown in pics.

They currently have Pirelli P Zero Rosso tyres on them in 245/40 with heaps of tread. These tyres are over $1k AUD on Tirerack.com (excluding delivery). They are German manufactured Pirellis, speed rated to 300kph with AA traction rating and A temperature rating. These are very good street tyres. They currently have 7mm tread depth with 8mm brand new, so there's heaps of good rubber left.

The wheels weigh barely 1kg more when I compared them to R34GTR wheels running worn RE01 tyres. Considering the R34GTR rims are forged by BBS, these are pretty light!

$Reasonable offers? Will separate rims and tyres if buyers can be found for both.

post-28560-0-95494400-1310999975_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-75351800-1310999958_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-65150400-1310999966_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-61666600-1310999962_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-13038900-1310999955_thumb.jpg

**BRAND NEW** GFB G-Force electronic boost controller.

Specs on the GFB site: http://www.gfb.com.a...-by-for-g-force

6 boost memories. Open/closed loop. 50psi capable. Comes with trigger button for scramble/overboost. Digital boost gauge. Overboost warning etc etc RRP$350

The box was only opened to get pics; never fitted, played with or fondled.

$280

G_Force.jpg

post-28560-0-48728600-1311000693_thumb.jpg

6x RB26 standard coils from 32GTR (I've been told they're the same as 33GTR, 34GTR and 260RS). Used, but in fine working condition.

They handled 290kw on 16psi, but I've turned up the wick past 20psi and didn't want to pay for another tune if spark broke up on the dyno with the standard coils so I went aftermarket.

$100

post-28560-0-08348100-1311000977_thumb.jpg

Apexi Power FC with hand controller to suit 32GTR and 33GTR. Instruction manual included. Within 3yrs old, so it has current firmware.

Tuned to 290kw with 16psi on -7s, 550cc injectors and drives great.

Works fine, but I've upgraded to a Haltech Platinum Pro.

$1000

post-28560-0-90079000-1311001228_thumb.jpg

Thanks for looking!

Mark :)

Heya TONTON!

PM me a reasonable offer.

I don't usually buy/sell wheels. You can see the tyres are worth some coin and have shitloads of tread left, plus the rims are barely used.

Maybe I should get off my ass and ring a good wheel place to see what they'd sell me the same setup brand new and go from there?

Mark :)

Heya all :)

The rims are 9.5" wide as per the title.

I put 8.5" in the description which is incorrect. It was 1am this morning whistling.gif

Thanks to BLITZ-26 for the heads up, appreciated ;)

Mark :)

those wheels are going fro about $600-850 as rims with shit tyres on them for a guide mate, so add the tyres to that and it should give u a ball park figure to start, i see your located in blaxland, if u see a orange r32 give us a wave i only live in glenbrook

jeremy

sorry if this is obvious or not, but will that power fc suite a 33 gtst by any chance?? or do i have to look for a specific rb25 power fc?

Heya YTS :)

That's what I was thinking.

I have $1200 in my head as the tyres are pretty damn good and near new condition.

But I'm open to negotiation, PM any offers guys :)

SEAN

This Power FC will only suit a R32/33 GTR, sorry.

Mark :)

Heya SKYLINE,

From what I can see, the V35s run +30 offset standard, and these are +35, so there's a very good chance they'll fit nicely!

More than happy to let you test fit to confirm.

Mark :)

Heya KRISHY,

Yeah I can split them, PM me your offer.

Consider it'll cost me at least $50 to get the tyres removed too.

PATTY_B

$15 for delivery to 6147

Thanks guys :)

Mark!

Heya all,

Just another pic of the Power FC and price drop to $900

Serial#: PFC GTR33L 020-2457

L-Jectro model for use with MAFs

post-28560-0-91487100-1312685136_thumb.jpg

Mark :)

Heya NIZMO,

Yep, happy to separate rims and tyres.

KRISHY a few posts above seems to be keen for the rims. PM me your offer on the tyres and I'll chat to KRISHY about making up the difference.

Have a good one NIZMO,

Mark :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Mark. Thanks for being able to remove the tires but now I don't have a functioning car. So the go is to get it back up and running before anything else. So I am going to have to withdraw my interest in this mate. Sorry for any inconvenience

If niZmo_Man is still keen on the tyres im keen for the wheels, Just need to check when I get home how much guard work ill need to do to fit my car (32gts-t).

  • 2 weeks later...

Heya all :)

Wheels have gone.

GFB Boost Controller, brand new, $280

RB26 coils in working condition (selling due to upgrade), $100

Power FC with hand controller to suit 32/33GTR (selling due to upgrade), $850

Mark :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...