Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, but as I've told you before, they don't have these tables in Nissan ECUs. Only the RB26 even has an inlet air temp sensor. The whole point of my post was that you have to work with what you've got. In the case of Nistune, it means that the knock maps are not always reliable, so you have to decide if you're going to try to live with random changes of map (when it shouldn't), or it never changing because it never detects knock even when it happens (which also occurs, and is of course worse) or whether you're going to disable it and tune sensibly to avoid the problem altogether. It is possible to tune so that you might miss out on some winter performance, but you won't ping it to death in summer.

Burnouts are dumb at the best of times. So I say that motors that cook as a result are not a problem, just an education.

Yeah, but as I've told you before, they don't have these tables in Nissan ECUs. Only the RB26 even has an inlet air temp sensor. The whole point of my post was that you have to work with what you've got. In the case of Nistune, it means that the knock maps are not always reliable, so you have to decide if you're going to try to live with random changes of map (when it shouldn't), or it never changing because it never detects knock even when it happens (which also occurs, and is of course worse) or whether you're going to disable it and tune sensibly to avoid the problem altogether. It is possible to tune so that you might miss out on some winter performance, but you won't ping it to death in summer.

Burnouts are dumb at the best of times. So I say that motors that cook as a result are not a problem, just an education.

nistune has coolant temp trim tables.

but yeah do what you said re just tuning for summer and itll be fine all year

Random changes....sounds a bit disconcerting for a daily driven car.

If I do go for a nistune/PFC the closest tuner will be nearly 2 hours away, which makes me think any drama's will be a big hassle for me.

There's no reason to be stressed about it. Once tuned, a nistuned ECU should be able to be left alone until you change something on the engine. Mine hasn't been hooked back up to the laptop since it was tuned years ago (apart from just to have a look at something.)

There's no reason to be stressed about it. Once tuned, a nistuned ECU should be able to be left alone until you change something on the engine. Mine hasn't been hooked back up to the laptop since it was tuned years ago (apart from just to have a look at something.)

ok, cool. Well I am pretty much sold on the nistune, seems to be the best bang for buck option. And it seems they don't make PowerFC's anymore (not that it really matters).

What is the going rate for a nistune....tune?

guess i'll have to trawl through the QLD site to find some reputable tuners who are nistune friendly. Do I NEED a z32 or is just optional/better than the stock AFM?

And final question (I hope) - I have come across a 2nd hand ecu with nistune already installed, if I were to buy this would it be a simple plug and play and then getting it tuned to my mods?

Thanks again, you guys have been very helpful :cheers:

It has a resolution suited to higher airflow, so if you max out the stock one (~240kw ish) then you need a Z32 or it makes tuning very difficult.

Re the ECU no it isn't that simple, you cant just plug an R32 ECU into an R33, you need to wire it in.

Edited by Rolls

It has a resolution suited to higher airflow, so if you max out the stock one (~240kw ish) then you need a Z32 or it makes tuning very difficult.

Re the ECU no it isn't that simple, you cant just plug an R32 ECU into an R33, you need to wire it in.

So my stock AFM should be fine for the ~200 mark? The ecu/nistune i'm looking at is out of an R34....

guess i'll have to trawl through the QLD site to find some reputable tuners who are nistune friendly. Do I NEED a z32 or is just optional/better than the stock AFM?

And final question (I hope) - I have come across a 2nd hand ecu with nistune already installed, if I were to buy this would it be a simple plug and play and then getting it tuned to my mods?

Thanks again, you guys have been very helpful :cheers:

EFI do Nistune in QLD and the tuner sean is great, I had my R32 Nistuned by them it never missed a beat as long as I owned it.

I went a Power FC in my R34 GT-T and it's working great, I have had it installed since the car had it's first mods fitted, No issues with the unit what so ever.

Edited by RandomHero83

It has a resolution suited to higher airflow, so if you max out the stock one (~240kw ish) then you need a Z32 or it makes tuning very difficult.

Re the ECU no it isn't that simple, you cant just plug an R32 ECU into an R33, you need to wire it in.

Rolls , what makes u think u have to wire in an r32 ecu to a 33?

Rolls only the VTC needs to be wired in on gtst's. But if u buy a programmed r32 ecu that has rb20 image u will have to either change the tps to a rb20 tps or send the board to NIStune to get a rb25 base image programmed.

On GTR as EAT ME posted, change a few settings in NIStune

That is right, I had to use a S1 rb25det TPS as the S2 one didn't work with the R32 ecu.

So yeah you have to "wire in" a few things, not very difficult though, but if you aren't electrically useful then you would need to pay someone to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...