Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that was written like a monkey that went to troll school.

and if you are talking only of markIV supras, then they never had a 1J anyway they had a 2J

also i heard that 26 is better technology just not stronger parts from factory.

speak on it people.

I dont know anything bout supra's , just noting that two of the top tuners in japan seemed to favour the GTR motor over the supra motor, but they used the supra's body and gearbox.

I dont know about troll school either, but i know theres a lot of monkey's on the gold coast!!!:nyaanyaa:

  • Replies 259
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I dont know anything bout supra's , just noting that two of the top tuners in japan seemed to favour the GTR motor over the supra motor, but they used the supra's body and gearbox.

I dont know about troll school either, but i know theres a lot of monkey's on the gold coast!!!:nyaanyaa:

top secret does all these crazy conversions just to be different at tokyo auto salon... lol

and its true. thats why they made the v12 TT supra.

to be honest ive never been in a 1J powered car so i may change my mind .. lol.

I have a video and theres a Jap Guy called SMOKEY NAGATA , hes a top tuner in japan, dont know if you guys have seen his DVD, he does burn outs and over 300km/hr runs on the street, his mate also drive a GTR, hes also a top tuner.

anyhow, in his video his uses a supra but puts the GTR engine in with the supra 6speed , he does this to two supra's cause the body is better aerodynmics apparently and also has a V8GTR which hammers too..

If the 1J was so much better how come he doesnt use it?? must be a reason or maybe hes just a nissan fan

That car was originally a 2JZ which later got swapped to the RB26 when the car the 26 was originally from hung its gloves up. I believe the 26 was the better developed motor at that point and they had specific goals for it.

Later that same car went on to run a 3SGTE (2L 4 pot from an MR2 or Celica) which also muscled the car over 300 and was seen doing so on one of the earlier hioctane DVD's.

Moral of the story is at 1000hp its not necessarily which motor you started with but how much development you have invested into it..........................................

What does "better technology" mean?

not pushrods?

wasnt about LS vs RB

talking about JZ vs RB

i read it but i cant back it up as far as maybe the fact the intake manifold and turbo setups are better.

someone should be able to speak on what is better between the two.

wasnt about LS vs RB

talking about JZ vs RB

i read it but i cant back it up as far as maybe the fact the intake manifold and turbo setups are better.

someone should be able to speak on what is better between the two.

Yeah nah.. The JZ is a sturdier motor and matches as far as tech goes... If not surpasses.

First thing that won me in the JZ decision was the oil pump. A stout keyway backed up by a spline adaptor press fit onto the crank and the actual oil pump being driven by the spline.

As far as tech goes its a 2 piece runner to plenum with an injector bolt on section (like a spacer off the head). 2 cam sensors, map sensor, big throttle with TPS attached and a 1 piece harness that does not wire into the car. The motor can be unplugged and lifted out, then run on the floor if u want (old v8 style).

No VCT but I dont exactly call that leading edge technology and the turbo setup on the JZ is actually pretty trick... They are stout for an OEM item.

Nobody is saying they are crap lol, they just aren't the absolute best motor ever created like people seem to believe.

No, toyota worshipping phaiggots like many here hold that special place for the JZ series, god there is some cock pulling that goes on over them !

2JZ NO SHIT WITH NAAWWSSS... etc

People that wouldn't know if a dog bit them etc.

No, toyota worshipping phaiggots like many here hold that special place for the JZ series, god there is some cock pulling that goes on over them !

2JZ NO SHIT WITH NAAWWSSS... etc

People that wouldn't know if a dog bit them etc.

haha, thats some funny shit!! you must be a strong nissan fan lol... :thumbsup:

haha, thats some funny shit!! you must be a strong nissan fan lol... :thumbsup:

ya think?

i am RB all the way. i just admit that 2JZ is a very strong motor straight out of the factory.

i also admit it looks like a big boring docile cow and sounds like the straight 6 version of a hyundai with a cannon..

ya think?

i am RB all the way. i just admit that 2JZ is a very strong motor straight out of the factory.

i also admit it looks like a big boring docile cow and sounds like the straight 6 version of a hyundai with a cannon..

yeah well certainly on paper it sounds better than an rb, i cant speak for it really though, ive never driven one, i just like nissan since the first vl turbo that i drove, was like a jet engine, smooth and silky , but nasty.. from then on ive been sold on rb's..:whistling: for me i just feel that the rb is a very well designed bullet proof motor, and i have confidence in it..

Edited by SliverS2

what is this faggotry??

1JZ sounds nice.

but 2JZ come on?

twin cam RB>2JZ for note

Amazing :D but to be fair, it is an RB28. On gate that is always going to sound incredible.

Fkn lol at the end of the vid :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...