Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys few weeks ago i got my Bosch 040 installed intank, but im installing a surge tank now and using an 044 as the external pump. I get the general idea of how the system works, and what lines need to go where, But im having trouble identifying what lines are what under the car... the second hardpipe in the stock location seems to be an overflow pipe as its just a blank hardpipe that goes into the tank, but i dont know if the fuel line that went onto that hardpipe is the line that comes from the FPR or not?....

fuelagain.jpg

Im using this photo as a guide -

fuelsystem.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/
Share on other sites

I had a look under there and i can see the lines, But they connect to hard pipes and then travel all the way down the car. I think i have my feed and return bit right but dunno what to do with the overflow bit of the circuit.

simple. hose clamps are pressure. spring clips are return.

Ok so i have the feed bit correct with my red line as that one had a screw and clamp and the other just had a spring type one i undid with plyers.. So then the blue lines can only go as ive shown here then?

fuelagain.jpg

edit : Also, do i have to have another fuel filter after the external pump?? wont this restrict flow a bit? and can i just steal power for the external from anywhere?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5928871
Share on other sites

For max performance and life of the pump run a new heavy cable from the battery (easy if its in the boot but do it anyway) and fit a good earth and control the power supply with a decent relay and switch it from the original pump circuit. There are a couiple of "how to" s in the DIY section.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5928989
Share on other sites

In regards to the return lines run the return line which is the blue one youve marked to the second nipple from the top of the surge then with the niple right at the top run that back into fuel tank where the return originally was connected.

With regards to the extra fuel filter i done run one, the stock one will be enough as your feed pumP filters it through its sock then the 044 will also filter through its inbuilt one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5929066
Share on other sites

Isn't the setup:

Top - return from fuel rail

2nd top - overflow to fuel tank

3rd top - inlet from fuel tank

Bottom - outlet to pump to rail

Nah the top is overflow since you want it only returning to the tank when the surge is full in order to try and keep the surge tank full at all times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5929264
Share on other sites

The idea is not to keep the surge tank full. The surge tank is really a "de-aeration system", to prevent the engine ingesting air because of fuel surge in the fuel tank, or because of air "dissolved" in the fuel. It is highly unlikely that the surge tank would ever get anywhere near empty enough to experience fuel surge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5929304
Share on other sites

ok just had another look under the car...and i thought there was only 2 fuel lines, one going to rail and one coming back, but there is 1 more line that just goes from *somewhere* into the top of the fuel tank.... Do i just leave this one alone as im assuming its an overflow?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5929358
Share on other sites

everyone has different ideas on which nipples should go where. personally i have the top to return, 2nd is return from the rail, 3rd is feed from tank and bottom is obviously always gonna be the feed for the main pump.

main reason i set it up like that was to try and keep the fuel in the surge tank as cool as possible as i was having issues with the pump cavitating on hot days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5929464
Share on other sites

ok just had another look under the car...and i thought there was only 2 fuel lines, one going to rail and one coming back, but there is 1 more line that just goes from *somewhere* into the top of the fuel tank.... Do i just leave this one alone as im assuming its an overflow?

Probably the line back from the carbon canister. So you can leave it as is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5929538
Share on other sites

fuelpumpthingagain.jpg

Guys just want to confirm once again before i actually bolt everything in, as i went and got all my required fuel hoses, fittings and clamps today.

The line circled in red there, do i go from surge tank over flow into that hard pipe, and then the fuel hose that WAS on there goes to the surge tank as well ?

the other line under the car that i said goes to tank and looks like another overflow also goes to what feels like a plastic container INSIDE the fuel tank...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5940964
Share on other sites

yes, hook up the overflow on the surge tank (highest port) to that port circled in red. hose that was on there goes to the 2nd or 3rd fitting on the surge tank.

any other lines such as the breather, leave as per factory. those 2 hoses on that lid are the only 2 on or in the tank that need to be changed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5941171
Share on other sites

surgesetup.jpg

Ok well almost done then. I have 2 lines different though, i have that overflow on the 3rd port from the bottom, above the port that fills the surge tank, so i need to switch them around. Which is GAY cause i just spent 60$ on fuel injection hose and cut it up to size now i gotta go spend more lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371851-044-surgetank/#findComment-5941217
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...