Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had read that somewhere, but couldn't justify the price for a street car, vs some spacers and bolts that cost me nothing.

Yep, I hear you.

I can get these for far less than RRP if you ever decide you want them.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I machined up some spacers (just a thick washer really), you could use a stack of washers if you really had to. If you want I could make you some spacers out of ally, and get the bolts for you. pm if you want it.

No worries, I do the H/D Links for $135 a pair; bar prices I'm happy to PM.

Is it worth my time throwing together a fresh group buy?

If we can get 5 people to confirm their interest; I'll get one together.

Prices would be increased possibly $10-$15 per bar over my original 2011 Group buy prices.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372067-c34-stagea-sway-bar-group-buy/

I think I spoke to you at the Putty Road cruise regarding this and was too lazy/busy to follow up. :(

Looking at sway bars for the V35 but not sure on what to go with. Factory, it has a 34mm front and 24mm rear. Considering that I can't see any larger sizes, not sure what the benefits would be?

If there are benefits, then I'd be interested in joining a GB considering if all things line up :)

I think I spoke to you at the Putty Road cruise regarding this and was too lazy/busy to follow up. :(

Looking at sway bars for the V35 but not sure on what to go with. Factory, it has a 34mm front and 24mm rear. Considering that I can't see any larger sizes, not sure what the benefits would be?

If there are benefits, then I'd be interested in joining a GB considering if all things line up :)

Hi Tony, I do remember having a chat actually!

Don't forget the OEM bars are hollow; so going to the 32mm solid front & 20mm solid rear is a huge increase in roll stiffness.

Yours I can do as a one off anytime; so when you are ready mate.

Hi Tony, I do remember having a chat actually!

Don't forget the OEM bars are hollow; so going to the 32mm solid front & 20mm solid rear is a huge increase in roll stiffness.

Yours I can do as a one off anytime; so when you are ready mate.

Of course you remember the dark guy in a SAU QLD polo rolling in a N16 Pulsar! :P

I was looking at one of the companies in the states and they had the same sizes as factory - must be solid then. Can you acquire these, and if so what dorras are we looking at? Feel free to PM me if required :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...