Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes you are 100% correct - you got me on the wind chill factor mate... it is non existent for inanimate objects :/

I'll tell you what I do know about Fahrenheit though; the temps in f are different when you look at them in the context of this discussion; 180f = 82.2c , 210f = 98.9c a difference of 16.7c (30f) which I think you'll agree is quite significant.

Those temperature calculator thingys on the internet don't work that bit out for you... lol

BTW You'll love Canada; the people are great, they love to party and of course the snow is just awesome!

There are some top snowboarding spots to check out around Fernie BC (Three Sisters) where I'm originally from.

Yeh 30 degrees Fahrenheit is about -1 degree Celsius lol (as I'm sure you know being you are from Canada). So if a thermostat opens 30f below operating temperature then that is 1c below operating temperature.

It is impossible for a standard heat exchanger (radiator) to bring water below ambient temperature. That would require a thermodynamic refrigeration cycle, eg. the vapor-compression refrigeration air-conditioner in your car. Wind chill has no affect on a radiator unless the temperature of the water is above ambient temperature. If you parked a car with a cold engine out in a freezing cold wind, the water in the radiator would not drop below ambient temperature. However if you warmed the car up first and then parked it in the same wind, it would cool down to ambient temperature quicker than if there was no wind. It would never go below ambient temperature, it's impossible.

Off topic, I've always wanted to go to Canada! Intend on doing a year-long working holiday over there at some stage; snowboarding being my main activity :D

I dont think they sell them anymore i cant find it on there site.

Sorry I hadnt replied earlier.

If you are only hitting 100 deg on the track you dont need to worry so much. An oil cooler will fix that with ease, unless you have one already.

There are also antiboil mixes you can buy that will work up to 130 degrees I believe, or a water wetter agent. I would also pose the question, is a GTR rad any thicker?

Bare in mind oil is the primary cooling system, not the coolant.

Well ive got a oil cooler here and going to install this week and well see how that goes at the next drift day but since its winter and outside temps are under 20 degrees its not a problem like this weekend hit max 90 degrees so will see how it goes with the oil cooler in a few weeks.

I'll tell you what I do know about Fahrenheit though; the temps in f are different when you look at them in the context of this discussion; 180f = 82.2c , 210f = 98.9c a difference of 16.7c (30f) which I think you'll agree is quite significant.

Those temperature calculator thingys on the internet don't work that bit out for you... lol

Fair enough, I don't understand Fahrenheit in the slightest so I'll take your word on that :P

However, it still isn't going to affect much. The thermostat may start to open then but it will only be fractionally. It wouldn't be enough to stop your engine getting up to temperature. You could have a 3 meter thick radiator (for arguments sake I'm making it ridiculous :P ) and it still wouldn't stop you getting up to temp; as long as the thermostat is in working order then the radiator plays no part until the thermostat opens.

Oil cooler is the ticket.

Please document and update the post once you have it fitted, is good info to keep record of in future.

Will do, but the results will be more use for say a day where the weather is 25 degrees plus but that will have to wait til later on in the year.

Where do they them i cant find them.

Hi mate,

The HPI Evolve Radiators are a brand new product that have just arrived - They are now listed on our website for ECR33.

Click the link below for specifications:

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20266&cat=&page=1

Feel free to send me a pm if you have any questions :)

Cheers,

Steve

  • 2 months later...

Yeh 30 degrees Fahrenheit is about -1 degree Celsius lol (as I'm sure you know being you are from Canada). So if a thermostat opens 30f below operating temperature then that is 1c below operating temperature.

Good son of rajab. There's so much wrong with that it actually makes my brain hurt.

Back on topic, the Justjap cooling pro ones are OK however the bungs don't always seal perfectly (get a copper washer for the water temp sensor) and if you are still using the standard airbox (rather than a pod) the JJR ones don't allow the cool air scoop to fit properly. You can still leave the scoop sitting on top but it's not ideal. The Fenix radiators are lower on the air intake side so the factory scoop still fits. Besides that no problem at all with the JJR ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...