Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

ive noticed on the r33 chassis when u use you the stock intercooler there are two large pipes going down, one into the intercooler and one out the intercooler.

when you change to a front mount based setup and use only one of the pipes (the other return pipe goes into the plenum from the other side) can you use the other now empty pipe for mounting the pod filter intake where the stock intercooler used to sit? so that rather than having the pod in the engine bay it sits where the stock cooler used to sit, outside the engine bay, just behind your front bar side bit

anyone got this type of setup? of course you need a fmic to do it and not the stock one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37272-mounting-the-pod-in-the-front-bar/
Share on other sites

I don't see why not - my main concern would be making sure the pod filter isn't exposed to the elements (water, stones, large insects). But my pulsar is drawing air from a cavity between the bodywork and the inner guard for the front wheel so if you find a good spot, why the heck not.

i think the more accepted route is to use the spare hole for a good CAI setup, and box the pod where it currently sits... (this is what ill be doing when the intercooler goes in)

As kinks said, the pod could get exposed to all sorts of dirty water, mud, bugs, etc depending on what front bar you have...

However - i think some people have done this, and the gains seem pretty good.

Hey Paul,

See me at the Auto Salon, my car and myself will be there and i could show ya the best way to do it, GIZMO73 is spot on.

I neatly made the hole bigger to fit a 4" drain pipe, that sits just below the pod (in a sealed box). Then used a 4" 90deg bend to feed from the gap in the front bar.

I fitted a K & N pod filter, which is enclosed in its own tub, (from a locally produced car) and plumbed 90mm pipes to the air flow metre. The car has never gone better! I also fitted a inner splash sheild to protect the tub from water/ stones etc. Only things to be aware of is speed humps/steep driveways, and large puddles as the snorkel sits below the bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...