Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree with Cam, dump/front pipe, EMU and tune for 20psi on the stock turbo. As long as the oil restrictor doesnt get blocked it should last, mine did for over 4 months. Then save for the turbo rebuild...

(Aaron, I think 2.5mm would be better)

i was talking opening it up in general. mines open 2.5 if i remember right.

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Alright. This is the smarts I like to hear. Anywhere that you guys can link me to more info on the oil restrictor? Dunc told me to do that too, so I'm guessing it should be at the top of the priority list.

iamhe77, ended up getting the black Aero kitted one from Wodonga.

Edited by jasevr4

Alright. This is the smarts I like to hear. Anywhere that you guys can link me to more info on the oil restrictor? Dunc told me to do that too, so I'm guessing it should be at the top of the priority list.

iamhe77, ended up getting the black Aero kitted one from Wodonga.

Yeah, that and the dump/front pipe.

Is the Nismo the one with the two square tips? If so leave it. It is a damn good design and a lovely note :)

Alright. This is the smarts I like to hear. Anywhere that you guys can link me to more info on the oil restrictor? Dunc told me to do that too, so I'm guessing it should be at the top of the priority list.

iamhe77, ended up getting the black Aero kitted one from Wodonga.

i dont think theres an exact write up. its the banjo bolt on the oil line from to the turbo

If memory serves, its actually the Nissan Sports Muffler - not the nismo one actually

Oh, if that's the case.... upgrade it.

2.5" exhausts have no place on our cars. Bang for buck is the Blitz NUR. Quiet as stock and free flowing 80mm pipe.

Yeah I'm just going by what I've been told. It's the one where you can press a button and it becomes quieter/louder. Not a twin tip.

Has anyone had an Emanage tuned in SA from here?

Yep, Nissan Sports Muffler. Its what I've got in my car.

No ones tuned with e-manage in SA yet; Ive got one sitting on my shelf for, Im slowly organising all my parts & funds to get that done at Willall

Yep, Nissan Sports Muffler. Its what I've got in my car.

No ones tuned with e-manage in SA yet; Ive got one sitting on my shelf for, Im slowly organising all my parts & funds to get that done at Willall

should just drive down to melbourne with bigkev and big fella, you could be big dunc lol

A good bet would be to take a road trip to melbourne to get an eManage tuned.... or get a group together and put Cihan (www.etuner.com.au) up for the night so he can tune a few while there ;)

I made over 200awkw on a 2.5 inch dump/front pipe mate, with the stock turbo... :whistling:

and here I was thinking that your initial 200kw was made with the Kamikazee turbo back that came with your car.

So if you had to start again, would you leave the 2.5" pipe on the car?

What are you guys basing the oil restrictor needing to be enlarged on? Has anyone measured the oil flow out of the turbo? Im assuming if its enlarged to much it will get too much flow and possibly blow the oil seals in the turbo. Im interested in this mod if it helps and if this is in fact a problem with the turbo.

I wouldn't have thought Nissan would run a smaller restrictor than needed.

What is the standard size of the restrictor? Is it easy to get that banjo bolt out while turbo still fitted in the car?

Cheers

What are you guys basing the oil restrictor needing to be enlarged on? Has anyone measured the oil flow out of the turbo? Im assuming if its enlarged to much it will get too much flow and possibly blow the oil seals in the turbo. Im interested in this mod if it helps and if this is in fact a problem with the turbo.

I wouldn't have thought Nissan would run a smaller restrictor than needed.

What is the standard size of the restrictor? Is it easy to get that banjo bolt out while turbo still fitted in the car?

Cheers

So don't do it, no-one is forcing you.

Fact: Aaron blew up two turbos because his restrictor was blocked.

Fact: I ran 20psi on the stock turbo just to prove it wasn't going to crap its self or shear the ceramic off the shaft.

Nissan don't care what happens after the warranty has expired and cant be held responsible for sub-standard servicing or oil selection causing a build-up of crap on the inside of you engine. The stock restrictor is 1mm and obviously blocks very easily.

The front banjo bolt is the restrictor and can be removed with a little patience. The turbo seals are steel so I dont understand how you would think they will "blow out". Drilling it out is mandatory if upgrading to a bush core highflow btw. :thumbsup:

So don't do it, no-one is forcing you.

Fact: Aaron blew up two turbos because his restrictor was blocked.

Fact: I ran 20psi on the stock turbo just to prove it wasn't going to crap its self or shear the ceramic off the shaft.

Nissan don't care what happens after the warranty has expired and cant be held responsible for sub-standard servicing or oil selection causing a build-up of crap on the inside of you engine. The stock restrictor is 1mm and obviously blocks very easily.

The front banjo bolt is the restrictor and can be removed with a little patience. The turbo seals are steel so I dont understand how you would think they will "blow out". Drilling it out is mandatory if upgrading to a bush core highflow btw. :thumbsup:

Take it easy mate, Im not attacking anyone here, just asking.

I read the link that Jetwreck supplied and noticed they are talking about a Garrett BB core. The guy was increasing the size of the restrictor when all Garrett BB cores have a restrictor built into the oil feed in the core. This makes it pointless to drill out the banjo for that turbo as Garrett have already set the flow needed.

If the standard turbo is high flowed with a new bush bearing core I can understand why you need to check the flow and adjust the restrictor to suit the manufacturers flow rates.

Just working out what circumstance it was advised in this thread to do it. If the turbo is stock I don't see the need. Just remove the banjo and clean.

Just gathering more info for myself cheers.gif

Edited by slippylotion

Take it easy mate, Im not attacking anyone here, just asking.

Just remove the banjo and clean.

Just gathering more info for myself cheers.gif

It's more of a safety issue.....a 1mm hole is a lot easier to block than a 2mm ect......cleaning it may not fix the problem as there may be more shit sitting around the engine that will block it at a latter stage(e.g. Aarons oil filter res)

I was told by my turbo builder to open up the hole as the Garrett BB set I have already has a restrictor in it.

BTW.

P.S. Chill pill guy's.....ffs the guy(radaladelaidian) was only asking a question about why we were doing it......there has been a lot of what I would call rude response's lately(I know I am one to speak!!blush.gif)......I know there are a lot of new guys coming on here now and maybe its the way they write responses but I am sure they did not wake up in the morning having the objective of pissing you off by the end of the day.....

well maybe Aaron and Iain wake up with that thought towards each other....I think it's just sexual tension though! :P

Edited by Jetwreck

yeh i had an oil blockage near the pump. and it couldve been the reason it kept blowing. but ive fixed that since, and got more power after another tune.

i'd suggest doing it, but as scott says no ones forcing you, but your turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...