Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rifling would be a waste if time and great expense, because you aren't realizing that it's for the projectile, not the gas.

Also, using boost pressure for water methanol is another waste of time. You need the wmi at low levels of boost when the car is under the most load. Without much pressure, you aren't going to atomise the the mix anywhere near enough, so it's not goin to work.

My system worked well at 150 psi, the mix was like steam. Anything under 50psi and it dribbled, like the shit your posting.

Common sense, there is a lack of it these days. People need to realize these ideas would be utilised by BMW, Ferrari, Nissan, etc if they were so great. Why? Because they have millions for R&D, and much smarter people than a few kids on a forum.

I don't see the need to be so harsh... You blindly discourage innovation. It was an idea, even if it doesn't work, it was someone trying to think of a method to improve.

Explain why it wouldn't work, pat him on the back for thinking. Don't shoot him down for both.

I don't see the need to be so harsh... You blindly discourage innovation. It was an idea, even if it doesn't work, it was someone trying to think of a method to improve.

Explain why it wouldn't work, pat him on the back for thinking. Don't shoot him down for both.

Thanks man, like i posted that im no engineer and dont understand gas dynamics. I just had an idea and wanted to learn from the pros.

I saw Mafias post and wondered how he treats people around him in everyday life who ask a question.

Now GTSboy, im impressed with but i wont pretend to understand everything he wrote but i got some of it. Thanks man

Slightly off topic. (sorry) I'm not sure if i'm just a bit slow lol, (actually i probably am), but something i didn't know up until a couple of years ago after seeing some engine dyno results, was that exhaust manifold and port sizes should not be port matched. I've seen alot of people taking to their exhaust ports and cast manifolds with die grinders trying to get a perfect port-gasket-runner diameter match, when infact there should be a 'slight' step in diameter with the exhaust port of the head being smaller than the runner diameter to help stop a bit of exhaust gas reversion back to the cylinder.

Edit. Not sure if this particularly applies to forced induction, as they were only atmo engines i saw results for. I guess with the pressure differential between inlet and exhaust on a turbo it wouldnt make a huge difference.

Edited by _x_FiReStOrM_x_

Heya GTSBoy!

Good to see someone who actually knows what the fark they are talking about.

Just to add, 'rifling' would be best designed for a small range in velocity. Low speed 'rifling' would disturb laminar flow at high velocity and high speed 'rifling' at lower velocities would be much less effective.

GTSBoy, what do you do?

I learnt most of my aero knowledge through a good mate who was an aerodynamicist at Williams F1 for a while.

PM me if you're keen for a chat about nerd stuff!

Mark :)

And? Look inside most OEM plenums and you will find all sorts of interesting lumps and bumps and grooves designed to even the distribution to the cylinders. Ever wonder how the hell a conventional RB20 or 25 inlet manifold manages to get pretty eve distribution to all 6 even though the TB is directly opposite #s 3&4? Same reasons.

There is no way that a spiral groove on the inside of a plenum is going to get the whole mass of gas rotating in the <1 complete turn available from the TB to #6. But it may well be able to influence the shape of the flow to make it spread out a bit better (and not purely because it's spiralled.....that may just have been a crackbrained ida that some Nissan engineer tried and found out that it did what they wanted).

And?

I was just pointing out that Nissan HAS done something like that and they wouldn't have gone to the effort of it without good reason.

I'm just a designer, not an engineer but as a designer I have to take into account HOW things are made and you certainly wouldn't make your casting any more complicated that it needed to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...