Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Yet another noob question to ask. How do you tell if the standard shocks on the R33 are stuffed and need replacement? When i said tell, i meant by the way the shocks handle bumps and whether they are noisy. My ride's shocks go squish on all four whenever I go over a hump and I'm not sure if that's how they are or they're stuffed. Also, my R33 seem to have a slight bodyroll on cornering at 40km/h. Are my swaybar bushings shot or am I asking a stupid question as my understanding is that ALL cars will have bodyroll at a certain speed onwards and performance cars WILL have some sort of bodyroll even with swaybars on, except that the difference being between having a sway bar and not having one.

Opened up a new thread on this as I couldn't find a similar thread asking this. Will appreciate all responds.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373206-standard-r33-shocks/
Share on other sites

Hi all. Yet another noob question to ask. How do you tell if the standard shocks on the R33 are stuffed and need replacement? When i said tell, i meant by the way the shocks handle bumps and whether they are noisy. My ride's shocks go squish on all four whenever I go over a hump and I'm not sure if that's how they are or they're stuffed. Also, my R33 seem to have a slight bodyroll on cornering at 40km/h. Are my swaybar bushings shot or am I asking a stupid question as my understanding is that ALL cars will have bodyroll at a certain speed onwards and performance cars WILL have some sort of bodyroll even with swaybars on, except that the difference being between having a sway bar and not having one.

Opened up a new thread on this as I couldn't find a similar thread asking this. Will appreciate all responds.

Cheers

Check for leaks and also if when you go over bumps the car bounces up and down excessively that is generally a sign that they are wearing out, or simply push down on the car to test. In regards to the body roll the standard shocks on R33's are really shit. Worthwhile saving up and buying a shock/spring combo or adjustable coilovers.

You can get free inspections done at suspension specialist shops if you're unsure.

To check the condition of the shocks, "bounce" the corner of the car. A good shock should stop the bounce in about 1 cycle. And going "squish" is a sure sign that the shocks are not healthy. Also, you will find that the (current) ride quality is actually harsher than if you had new uprated shocks fitted.

ALL cars, even F1, have body roll in corners. It is a result of the weight being transferred to the outside of the corner. It's all about physics. You can reduce the body roll by fitting upgraded sway bars (DO NOT use springs / shocks to control body roll).

In theory you should replace the factory shocks after 50-60,000 kms, personally I haven't replaced mine, and I work in a suspension shop, but these will be the first main change my car will be getting once I get around to doing it, you really can't put a price on shockies.

I know a set of bilsteins I bought were f**ked because when I went over a dump, they were so soft and flat the front of the car would thud on the ground.

They should feel springy, not sloppy. Bilstein shocks are the best replacement and fine some nice springs for them. All depends what you do with the car. If you go adjustable coilover, make sure you get one with a big resevoir or external one so you can control the ride feel. Ive got height adjustable teins, bumpy as shit on the road.

As for the body roll, Ive taken turns at about 60km and you can feel that any more than that the car is just going to roll. Depends what kind of a turn you are talking about, surface of the road etc. Sway bars are the way to go. 16 year old cars here, the bushings are probably dry, cracked, leaky etc.

Edited by SargeRX8

(DO NOT use springs / shocks to control body roll).

I have always been told the opposite, springs and shocks should be primarily used to control body roll while swaybars are there to assist the springs / shocks. Reason being that springs / shocks will control roll in all axes but swaybars will only control left/right

I'm just guessing that in physics, bodyroll is caused by the sudden shift in weight of the body of the car. Maybe Cassbo is right in saying that shocks and springs can control the bodyroll and the swaybars will only assist in the process. But at the same time, I also guess that people tend not to rely too much on only shocks and springs is that in normal street driving, the spring rates are not as high and will NOT support as much bodyroll as higher rated coilovers do on the track, thus the major emphasis is on swaybars to do the job for cars that are mainly driven on the street.

Someone confirm this for me or correct me if I'm wrong?

Have a think about why swaybars are called swaybars...... Springs and shocks are there to work in tandem to control bumps and undulations in the road surface to keep the car level and swaybars control the sway in cars around corners. Simple as that guys.

Look at how a sway bar works and consider its proper name: anti-roll bar. If you go over a judder bar just to be extreme the left and right arms go up in unison and down in unison just swivelling in their mounts and thus have no effect on the car. Its is only when you throw the car into a turn that the arms move in opposite directions and exert a twisting motion on the bar which will tend to return to its original shape thus reducing roll.

To test a shock as above ^^^: push heavily down on a corner of the car and let go. It should bounce back up and stop dead. If it starts to go down again of its own accord its stuffed. Alternatively some suspension shops will repeat this test for free with a meter attached which will measure the the rebound and give you a printout.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...