Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My boot seems to have somehow jammed itself shut and no longer works via the seat side lever. I've never had a boot key either so I'm locked out. The lever seems to be working fine, hopefully I dont get a puncture or I'm screwed and stranded.

Anyone had problems with the boot lock mechanisim? Any special 'Fonzy' bashes to open it :D?

I guess the other way is to rip out the back seat? Does it just come out with a good yank or are there clamps holding it? The audio guys should be guru's at removing the back seat...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/
Share on other sites

my 33 boot is also blanked out so you cannot open it with a key... all I need is someone to muck with that little lock out lever and I would be in the same dilemma. I like the idea of having an electric soleniod in there like the commodores - and being able to operate it with a remote hanging off your keys.

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-748057
Share on other sites

Two bolts securing the bottom section of seat (they're on the carpet, you'll see 'em), then two clips at the front edge of the bottom seat section secure to the body. (Lift up the front edge and you'll see two metal loops going down through the body. A BIG screwdriver as a lever is easiest to get them out as mine were hard as!)

Back section has two bolts at the bottom, then lifts up and forward to remove.

BUT: The only space through here on mine (S1 R33) would be through the removable plate leading to the battery bay. Approx. dimensions = 22" x 5"? (56cm x 14cm... I always mentally think in imperial for some reason:D)

The hole that has the switch in it is about 5cm x 2.5cm, so you should be able to flick it with a metre ruler or something similar fairly easily. Doubt you could reach through without a long stick of some sort though.

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-751279
Share on other sites

... and try to get hold of the 'owner's' key, not the valet one. Once you get the boot open you should be able to get a locksmith to make you up a new key. Actually, from memory, the valet key is also unable to lock/unlock the glovebox, so you might be able to get a key cut from that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-752276
Share on other sites

I guess the other way is to rip out the back seat? Does it just come out with a good yank or are there clamps holding it? The audio guys should be guru's at removing the back seat...

You still cant get through, theres a metal plate thing that goes the whole way across. Pulling the seats out is easy tho - two bolts on the vertical surface at your legs, then clips to pull the bum part of the seat off. The back rest has a bolt on eaither side and once these are out, it needs to be lifted upwards (its on rail type things) before if will come out.

Hope that helps.

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-752327
Share on other sites

I heard if you give your VIN number and key to a local Nissan dealer, they can make you the master key even for imports.... cost a bit more I suppose, but is an option if you've lost the master key and was only given the valet key when you got ur car imported.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-764716
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...