Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys recently put a S2 25DET in my S1 R33 and put the car back together after the previous bloke took it apart.

Anyway I took it out for a drive and she runs sweet but if I take the positive lead off of the battery while the car is running it shuts off, also the battery drains bloody quickly.

Any diagnosis? Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373307-electrical-problems/
Share on other sites

yeah as above, pull the lead off the battery isn't a good idea, however the car should still run without it on. i'd say that that symptom as well as your battery draining fast is probably a sign that your alternator isn't working properly. i'd get it checked (can do this yourself with a multimeter or have an auto electrician do it for you)

Hey guys bit of an update, battery has 340CCA (+- a few) and measures 12V stationary, when the cars idling it measures 10.XXV - is this expected?

Mad are you able to give me any details on checking my alternator? I have a dmm.

Cheers for the help fellas.

Ehh also I was at BP putting air in the tyres while idling and it just randomly shut off but all electrics were still up. Cranked over first pop after that so I'm lost.

Edited by Tyral

Yehhh definitely sounds like a rooted alternator. But to make sure, put the positive lead of the multimeter on the output terminal of the alternator. You may find that you have a high level of resistance between your alternator and your battery which is preventing your battery from getting a good current. That would be a very high volt drop so I doubt it is the case, but it's easy enough to test so you may as well rule it out.

Sweet I'll give it a look when I get the car back. Also when I was on the way to the tyre place the car started to jerk and then just cut out, wouldn't turn over after that for about 5mins.

But after the break it went sweet again? Bloody odd. I'm no auto elec (obviously haha) but I have a hunch it could be the positive terminal on the starter?

A friend was putting the top bolt from the gearbox on and arced the terminal to the chassis, or something to that effect. When I bought the motor the plastic cap on the lower harness for the start was broken off so perhaps it's arcing randomly.

Thanks for you input boys, you've been a great help.

Alternator's dead. Got stranded for 2 hours on the motorway, good old whale of a car drew too much power from the AA guys' jumper pack to make the drive home.

I've got another RB25DET lying in the garage which I could pillage the alternator from, only trouble is that that motor has done 289,000K. Either that or a rebuild.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...