Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

currently i'm running on a RB26 engine in my R32 which grunt out 610 on the wheel but i fell that it is running short of TQ.

hence was thinking to go bigger CC for the TQ.

should i go with RB30 which is much easier swap or something more radical like VH45, VQ35 or 1UZFE?????

i was thinking VQ35 but i am not sure that it would serve me right or not...

what i am looking for is somewhere 650 to 700 on the wheel with good TQ from low rpm till red line..

it would be sunday drive car or occasionally track day car hence i was thinking TQ would be nice to drive.

my car is not GTR hence i dont think that putting in another type of engine would be a waste.

i know alot of ppl will flame me for thinking of putting all those engine into a skyline......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373344-vh45-vq35-rb30-or-1uzfe/
Share on other sites

Quite the opposite, I think I've read builds of the VH45 and VQ35 on sau. It's fun to experiment, as long as you realise the massive money sink that comes with uncharted waters.

I think MBS206 is currently putting an ls1 into an r33 (might be a different skyline?). Of those 3 engines, from what I've read the VH45 is the way to go. But I'm not sure on aftermarket support.

A twin turbo VQ35 has been done a bit before too, popular in the US I think.

Anyways, someone way more knowledgeable than me is about to come in and give you some much more useful info

Edited by Galois

the 1uz only make power with boost and won't get as far with fewer mods like a vq35. this some what the same with vh's they make considerable power with little to no mods but there's very little aftermarket support. it's up to application. I'd stay with your vq35 idea.

VQ35 with boost = new internals. VH45 with boost OK! RB30DET is proven combo and theres plenty of info on here about it.

The only thing about the VH45 is there timing chains are apparently weak, so if you get one regardless of age replace it anyway.

Some day I'll have a boosted VH45 in something...

VQ35 with boost = new internals. VH45 with boost OK! RB30DET is proven combo and theres plenty of info on here about it.

The only thing about the VH45 is there timing chains are apparently weak, so if you get one regardless of age replace it anyway.

Some day I'll have a boosted VH45 in something...

yes vh45 are strong and timing chains a problem, but for boosted v8 you can't go past a vh41, they have double row timing chains and rev out more but still tough as nail internals. they race them in new Zealand, all they do is replace valve springs and retainers, big cams and rev them to 9000 rpm to make 500 hp naturally aspirated.

I have a 1uz and it's a very smoothe engine, but aftermarket support is pretty low. ITs a very popular conversion though, hilux an hiace in nz! Bullet Supercars make a supercharger kit, bloody expensive. I'd look at vq30det, garage in Adelaide has done it just can't remember the name

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...