Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

performance would be about the same both cars quite low on power (34 may have a teeeny bit more but i think the difference wouldnt be very drastic - i drove the 2.5L RS model impreza and i found the performance to be pretty much the same on both) ... i do like driving my n/a 34 still though, its a nice car to drive

as long as you dont rice it up a whole ton and think its the fastest thing on the streets you will enjoy a flameless and happy time with your skyline :D if you want performance do get a gt-t .. their pretty much the same price these days as the n/a skylines

cons - no AWD, older, probably gna wanna put 98 octane fuel in it whereas you wouldnt in an impreza? oh and its an import - higher insurance and probably more expensive parts and the like

on that note do many people put 98 into a n/a skyline?

plenty of people will run their natro on 98 because they think they have to, but they don't. they will run fine on lower octane fuels (unless the timing has been advanced) as it's only the turbos that need to run on premium fuels. but any car (import or not) will generally run a bit smoother on premium fuels, but whether it is noticable or not is a different story.

insurance & petrol would be the main financial differences, can't comment on performance cause I haven't been in an rx.

a mate had a peanut eye wrx before his evo, was a nice car to drive (he taught me manual in it) interior was pretty good & the four doors was nice & practical haha

I run my n/a on 98, mainly because I have to drive from eastern suburbs to collingwood for work everyday, figured the extra $10 per tank wouldnt hurt seeing as a do a fair few km's so wanna run it on the better stuff.

The 34 will have a bit more power and torque than the Impreza. But don't have any illusion about the performance of N/A's.

They are slow.

But as Jonno said, they are nice to drive. If at all possible go for a Gtt.

And i run my 34 on 98, they were designed to run on 91-93 octane fuel so it's not necessary but for the extra ~$5 bucks a tank why wouldn't you. Cleaner petrol is never a disadvantage.

ah well i wont be so picky about my fuel, i generally pour v - power into the skyline ever since it came out and caltex 98 before, but when i first got it it only ran on 91 octane ...

but yeah mines been great never had any mechanical problems with it, looks amazing especially since wheels/tyres ...

but yes .. it is slow :(

insurance isnt the worst, i pay about $700 a year which isnt too bad (unless you compare it to the sexcel which is around about 250)

the premiums would be a fair bit higher if you got the gt-t though so watch out for that! thats the main reason why i got a n/a 34 rather than a turbo one

hahaha nah once i sell the bunkie im hoping to get something more "fun" and performance orientated as a 2nd car and keep this as my just for looks car hahahaha

r31 skyline maybe - might do the turbo conversion on that one

or even an older xr6 turbo falcoon

nice cheapies that i can maybe take to tracks and wont cry about if it gets a stone chip or the like

hahaha nah once i sell the bunkie im hoping to get something more "fun" and performance orientated as a 2nd car and keep this as my just for looks car hahahaha

r31 skyline maybe - might do the turbo conversion on that one

or even an older xr6 turbo falcoon

nice cheapies that i can maybe take to tracks and wont cry about if it gets a stone chip or the like

Probably the smarter option. I should have built a track car instead of trying to make this one both lol.

I say rock a Silvia or an R32, they always look mint in pig spec :thumbsup:

id love an r32 but their quite pricey (in comparison to the r31) ... my budget should be around 2k or so hopefully by the time im done fixing up this sexcel and selling it off

plus the family needs a 4 door boat anyway!

  • 3 weeks later...

performance would be about the same both cars quite low on power (34 may have a teeeny bit more but i think the difference wouldnt be very drastic - i drove the 2.5L RS model impreza and i found the performance to be pretty much the same on both) ... i do like driving my n/a 34 still though, its a nice car to drive

as long as you dont rice it up a whole ton and think its the fastest thing on the streets you will enjoy a flameless and happy time with your skyline :D if you want performance do get a gt-t .. their pretty much the same price these days as the n/a skylines

cons - no AWD, older, probably gna wanna put 98 octane fuel in it whereas you wouldnt in an impreza? oh and its an import - higher insurance and probably more expensive parts and the like

on that note do many people put 98 into a n/a skyline?

I run 98 (any brand) on my R34. It should run fine on 95, but for some reason it does feel sluggish and seems to be a little thirstier, when running 95.

Then again I have a rare n/a auto Mine's ECU ;)

yeah i have found my fuel economy got a little bit better when running it on v power ...

but really for 15c a litre more it may not be much savings there, but oh well only the best for my baby wub.gif

I've ran my N/A R34 on V-Power, BP Ultimate, Caltex 98, and Mobil Premium 98. Usually run it on V-Power since it's the only thing closest to where I live. Get around about 400km-500km out of a tank. Never tried anything less than 98RON, and according to the manual... 97RON should be the minimum.

95 should be realistic minimum

the price difference from 95 to 98 isnt that big a gap is it really may as well just go 98 then... it seemed to run fine on 91 octane but i rarely drive my skyline anyway its no longer a daily so im happy to run it on good fuels :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...