Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Wont Fire.

slo14

By slo14,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
Posted

3rd time I have had this issue. It seems to come and go. Go out in the morning, wont fire. Try again in the afternoon and it does. Week or so later, happens again.

When it doesn't start, pull the CAS out, spin it and no ticking, nothing. Bought a brand new one. When it didn't start, changed it over, still nothing. So it's not the CAS.

Whats next to eliminate. Computer?

Anything else I should be checking ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Battery? Mine was being strange for a while, would let me start it up, but if I drove it for 5 mins and stopped it wouldn't start again. It would turn over but not fire... New battery fixed this.

wtf. a new battery fixed that ?

Battery doesn't seem to be the issue here. Cranks over fine if not extremely well. 13+ volts on the factory volts gauge.

Do u have an alarm? Sometimes they stuff up and cause issue's

No alarm I'm aware of. Under the dash there is a switch for Remote start. All stamped Nissan so i'm guessing it is an optional from the dealer. I don't have a button for it thou.

This is very intermittent. Broken one day. Fine the next. Ill have no hair left in a few days. Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming.

Edited by slo14
Link to comment
Share on other sites
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

Yes i like your thinking. Ill try get my hands on a multi meter and see if i have continuity to the computer or trace the wires werever they go.

Might even just get an auto electrician out if it doesn't start tomorrow.

I guess either pay someone to do it, or lose more hair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yes i like your thinking. Ill try get my hands on a multi meter and see if i have continuity to the computer or trace the wires werever they go.

Might even just get an auto electrician out if it doesn't start tomorrow.

I guess either pay someone to do it, or lose more hair.

When you are spinning the CAS, do you have the ignition turned to the 'ON' position?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
_x_FiReStOrM_x_ Community Regular

_x_FiReStOrM_x_

Posted
Posted

Battery? Mine was being strange for a while, would let me start it up, but if I drove it for 5 mins and stopped it wouldn't start again. It would turn over but not fire... New battery fixed this.

Common problem for some cars (ie, astras, rodeos). If the ecu can't get a good reference voltage the car wont fire. They just crank and crank... Strange problem, i know, but it does definitely happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have just checked continuity from the CAS to the computer. Everything checks out.

With ignition on I get the current voltages from the CAS plug:

pin 1 = earth

pin 2 = power - 1.55v

pin 3 = 1 deg - .3v

pin 4 = 120 deg -.3v

So the CAS if definitely getting power and signal.

What else does it need to fire? any other sensors?

If I get it towed to someone that can read from the consult, will that give me an error code to work with?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Now you need to find out why it has dropped 12V to the CAS.

If there is continuity from the power wire to the ECU, then either the ECU is not getting 12V (check power to ECU) or there is a problem with the ECU providing 12V

Also check continuity from the earth wire at the CAS plug to actual earth, not just back to the ECU. Make sure it is grounding

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Need help about headlight

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just checking; you are buying an aftermarket headlight for your V35, and the new headlight comes with a daylight running light that you want to wire in? You have the option of just not wiring the DRL in, and the new headlight will work like the old. If you want the DRL to work you will have to wire it in on the car as it wasn't delivered with one. Best way is to add a Normally Closed or Changeover relay in the car, and wire: 87a to both DRL power wires 30 to a fused ignition power source 86 to earth 85 tap into the power wire that goes to the low beam headlight Note, you cannot use the much more common Normally Open relay for this, you need the DRL to turn off when the headlight is on and vice versa.
    • Jayson20019
      Need help about headlight

      By Jayson20019 · Posted

      Hi i do buy a aftermarket headlight on ebay. For v35 skyline coupe. I know that its a plug and play and just use the old low beam light and balast from old headlight. But my problem is i dnt have knowlage on car and electrical thing. And the head light getnon ebay is the wire for halo ring light is not connected. I talk to the seller and he said that. What white and black wire for halo robg light is need to connect to RDL. Running day light. Anyone here can tell me how to connect it to Rdl? Which wire is yhe RDL?
    • Neostead2000
      3d printing

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      Hey Kaz, Unfortunately I am not at home currently and wont be for a few more months so I do not have access to my files or CAD. And at this point I prefer to keep the files to myself as I want to potentially make a few more pairs and see if they will sell within the EU before openly marketing them. But the way it's shaped and how small it is, I don't think you can fit both an indicator and a fog light onto the same surround, unless they were very small LED-type clusters.
    • Ryno
      Replacement clutch recommendation for an R32 GTR

      By Ryno · Posted

      I’ve just installed a Uniclutch sport into my R32. I’ve been blown away by it… it drives like a stock Toyota Corolla. It doesn’t make sense to me that a performance clutch can drive this well. I was about to pull the trigger on a Nismo Coppermix twin plate when I discovered the Uniclutch and decided to give that a shot instead. They’ve changed the game and I couldn’t be happier.    I was previously using an Extreme cushioned button clutch with lightened flywheel. I’m still using the same lightened flywheel with the Uniclutch.
    • MBS206
      R32 OEM rims name?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Mmmm no, that's a white series 2 R33 GTS-t
×
×
  • Create New...