Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, anyone here had any experience with a Greddy Intercooler?

The guys at PerfectRun have the kits very cheap compared to say HKS, Apexi or even local kits like ARE or SubZero.

For a R33 running a stock turbo ( potentially wil hi-flow it later) and PowerFC with boost controller, exhaust and intake mods whats the pick?

I dont want to limit my options too much in the future in terms of of flow rate, and I don't think I will be going the route of new injectors, fel pump and turbo (well if my girlfriend has anything to say on it :( ) so I think a responsive intercooler will be better than a monstrous power handler that has high pressure drop.

Comments?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

buy the ic right for your horsepower goal.

go too big and you get less horsepower and reduced throttle response.

the price for your ic is not the important part. you will get the worst intercooler imaginable for the most money if your power goals are not 'wild'. The more expensive the ic is the larger it is in most brands.Run a racespec cooler without the race spec motor and a race to go to and you will be sorry.

I'd say that the greddy ic would be more than enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-61230
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses.

I am looking for 180-200Kw at the wheels, which I believe is about the best you can hope for safely with the stock turbo (with the right ecu, ebc, exhaust, intercooler and intake).

For this sort of output I would assume I am looking at around 270-280kw at the flywheel?

The guys at ARE are providing me some great info, supposedly their tube and fin design in the stage 1 kit is now providing a higher cooling effect than their current bar and plate design (and with considerably less pressure drop) and is rated coservatively to 300Kw, up to around 330Kw is where they would suggest stepping up to their larger intercooler.

I am unsure what sort of rating the Greddy has, but its price is certainly interesting.

If anyone has any info on the ARE gear I am considering that a serious choice (although its around 2K for a complete kit so little more pricey than the Greddy).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-61253
Share on other sites

Originally posted by slayer

Thanks for the responses.

I am unsure what sort of rating the Greddy has, but its price is certainly interesting.

If anyone has any info on the ARE gear I am considering that a serious choice (although its around 2K for a complete kit so little more pricey than the Greddy).

The greddy would be a better choice budget wise and I dare say performance wise as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-61557
Share on other sites

If anyone has any info on the ARE gear I am considering that a serious choice (although its around 2K for a complete kit so little more pricey than the Greddy).

If they were the same dollars then go for the ARE item, if the ARE item is a small amount more then still buy it, if the GReddy one is heaps cheaper then go for it. The ARE one has HPC coated pipes which is one of the main reasons for the price, it is worth it.

I am a huge supporter of ARE products as many on here would know, I do believe that they make the best product in OZ by far and will continue to support them. I (DUEL) have purchased 6 coolers from them ranging from their base model to a fully custom one with PRO options.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-61593
Share on other sites

Skyzerr33 - where did you source the second hand intercooler, and how can you make sure its clean etc and not going to cause an issue for your engine (I have heard some nasty stories about secondhand intercoolers, mostly from intercoooler vendors though :D )

The GTR cooler is a bar and plate unit, what sort of pressure drop does it generate?

The boss (my girlfriend) is pretty touchy about spending money on mods as it is, so a cheap but effective option is always a good choice :(

$1500 fitted... hmmm, the Greddy option is $1600 plus freight to WA, and then either fitting cost ( around $150 ish?) or do it myself... pretty close call.

Thanks

Conrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-61794
Share on other sites

Actually the GTR cooler isn't a B&P cooler infact it uses the same core design as the stock 32 gtst cooler only bigger. I have read a few tests and have found that a VR4/EVo cooler is just as good infact in some tests it rated higher.....Richard from ARE told me that the VR4 cooler is a very good design and is probably the best flowing factory cooler available.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-61856
Share on other sites

Slayer - i got the coola from one of the WA guys who was selling it. he didn't need it anymore.

Its a 600x300x60 core (brand new made by the people who make the intercoola's for the Rivoli WRX's) with custom R33 GTR style end tanks. basically a new coola for half the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-62002
Share on other sites

Slayer, I'm using a HYBRID brand intercooler 600x300x75 is the core size, they retail for around $880. I managed 188rwkw @12psi with stock turbo and SAFC, so I can say they definately work, and there is no apparent lag from the longer intercooler pipes needed either. As far as pressure drop is concerned they rate them a 0.5psi drop @15psi. From memory the website was www.hybrid-developments.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-62054
Share on other sites

It's not just the size of the core that counts but the cross sectional area of the tubes, and the number of tubes your cooler has running accross as well.

For example (extreme case), if you had an intercooler that was 3 meters high, 7 meters long and with 14 100mm pipes used as the tubes to do the cooling, I'd imagine that you would have an extreme case of lag and that your car would be undrivable because of the time it would take for your turbo to preasurise or fill that intercooler full of air before you reach the desired level of preassure in the plenum chamber! Not to mention that since your engine will be working on suction at this stage it would be sucking air from the cooler as the turbo is pumping air in! So with this cooler, you may never reach any decent boost.

Now with a more realistic example, imagine a cooler 800 X 600 x 100, and with tubes that have a large cross sectional area. With a cooler this size, you would eventually reach desired boost, but because the cross sectional area of your intercooler is greater than the cross sectional area of your pipes running to and from the cooler, the turbo will have to spend a little time filling the cooler with air, until the preasure in the intercooler is equal to the preasure in the plumbing. Only after this happens you will reach full boost in the plenum.

So you can have a "bigger" cooler, but if you do, then you should make sure that the tubes of that cooler are also in proportion for the kind of power you are aiming for, so that the cross sectional area of your cooler is equal to the cross sectional area of your pipework.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-62333
Share on other sites

I am going to be very nasty here but it must be said.

HYBRID coolers are made from Garrett truck cores (Bar & Plate) Yes they do only have a small pressure drop but this is due to the very large tubes inside the core. What this means is that at higher psi (13 or higher) there overall efficiency falls off wuite rapidly as the air doesn't have time to cool as well. A well sized tube and fin cooler is the way to go. The ARE item on my mates RBS13 reduced the ambient air temp of 27oC to only 4oC at the throttlebody. While lack of pressure drop is important it is more important that the cooler actually cools well. It may be possible for Turbomad to actually make MORE power with a better cooler.

At the end of the day it is your money and your car. MOST aftermarket coolers are better than the stock one but be carefull, buying a bar and plate cooler with those dimentions for only $880 means it must be lacking in some areas. If you don't intend on running more than 13psi all the time then it will probably be OK. Just make sure the inside of the tanks are welded as well as the outside or the end tanks can litterally tear apart. Also make sure it doesn't leak. NO Garrett core is designed to be 100% leak free (this is from Garrett them selves) so ensure it is pressure tested before you buy ANY cooler, it takes great skill and time to repair cores so make sure it is done by someone who knows what they are doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3735-intercooler-choice/#findComment-62336
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...