Jump to content
SAU Community

Jjr Short Shifters

luvpsi
 Share

Recommended Posts

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

make your own. Thats what I did.

pulled the outer metal section of the shifter off (its seperated from the centre part by rubber) and cut the thread from the outer section and welded it onto the inner section. Solid short shifter, Cost = $0

Replaced bush that sits on the bottom as well. Next to no slop now and feels alot nicer.

If you have access to some tools + a welder then its a cheap option if you really want to do it. I had a spare one lying around so I just thought I'd give it a go.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

I have a short shifter on my R33. From what I recall it doesn't even have circlips... It is just the shifter and a series of bushes then a clamp to hold it all in place. The shift and gear control was awesome. The sound of a solid shifter shit me up the wall. The whirring noise that the shifter throws up is terrible. The Nismo shifters have a shorter throw than stock and do not let this noise through. Any solid shifter is going to let noise through, both skylines Ive had(R33's) used the same shifter and had the same noise. No matter how much rubber shit I put around it. Ive tried a plastic, stock and metal gear knob. Metal was the worst the stock one helps get rid of it and the other drift one didn't really do anything.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-Short-Shifter-Kit-R32-R33-/320741118270?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aada9113e

Mine looks like this. Pretty much exactly the same. Only reason I don't use it anymore is because my current stock shifter feels fine enough and not worth the extra noise you get from these shifters. BELIEVE ME you WILL notice it. Unless you're deaf or have your music always on, its audible. My car isn't quiet either.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Ive got 3 layers. One from my old car, the current and one wrapped around the base. Still was shit lol. Its the vibration and noise which travels through the stick which is shit. They should be dampened inside but that would defeat the point of a solid shifter...

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Hmmm I've never really noticed any extra noise. Its not rediculous anyway. If I had to say anything I'd say its a bit noisey under low revs high load (say in 4th gear at 30kmh) but other then that I dont find it to bad.

I got a brand new boot to go directly on the gearbox (as these always seem to be stuffed) and then ditched the lower portion of the rubber boot that sits in your car because my shifter was hitting it, I'm pretty sure I have an SR20 manual shifter but I'm not sure if its just that slight bit different or if somewhere during my modification I've bent it slightly. But anyway I'm happy with how it turned out :)

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

thats the one Ive bought for the R32-rb26, using VL turbo gearbox.

might try to install it tomorrow - havent worked on the car for a month so probably time to give installation a go

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I actually had my short shifter taken out all those years ago.

You tend to out shift the box too often due to the short through, which resulted in crunching the gearbox quite often.

Went back to stock and much less chance to out shift the synchros etc. Just something to think about.

I dont have a lot of mechanical sympathy :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...