Jump to content
SAU Community

Seeking Info- Rb20Det Intake & Exhaust Manifolds.

INDEEP

By INDEEP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlueRB240 Collaborator

BlueRB240

Posted
Posted

With the limited space you have why not go with a water to air intercooler? the piping will be even shorter than stock if you can fit the stock exhaust manifold. You could place the intercooler right over the coil packs and place the radiator in front which would only be 1" thick.

eightsixboy Mentor

eightsixboy

Posted
Posted

I honestly wouldn't bother with intake or exhaust manifolds, the only one worth getting would be a GTSR manifold but they go for crazy money.

If you can keep the standard turbo just highflow it, will make around 210-230 rwkw and be alot more responsive then a 25 anyways.

If you cant use the standard cooler pipes and a return flow then you might have to go a cheap front facing manifold, not sure how good they are.

Cooler size will depend on boost and power levels, if you are only aiming for around 170-180rwkw then a smaller cooler wont be a problem.

Unfortunently when putting a motor like this in a old car its going to be alot of one of fabricating, you might have to make your own cooler pipes and muck around with different coolers till something fits.

On another note are you upgrading the fuel lines? I would hate to think how small and inadequate the fuel lines on the car would be.

INDEEP Apprentice

INDEEP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

With the limited space you have why not go with a water to air intercooler? the piping will be even shorter than stock if you can fit the stock exhaust manifold. You could place the intercooler right over the coil packs and place the radiator in front which would only be 1" thick.

I think that by switching the hot and cold pipes from my dodgey picture on the previous page, and running the hot pipe under the front of the harmonic balancer into the RHS of the intercooler, I'll get away with it without too much trouble, and without running that much out of the ordinary (as when compared to a Skyline). I figure the closer it resembles a Skyline under the bonnet, they better it's going to work.

On another note are you upgrading the fuel lines? I would hate to think how small and inadequate the fuel lines on the car would be.

Lines will be updated to 8mm braided versions. OEM stuff is plastic, and I really doubt it's good for the pressure of a late-model EFI system. They're also probably 35 years old! Several good reasons to do away with them.

INDEEP Apprentice

INDEEP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A cooler like this might work better? Less piping also?

2004602470102364341S200x200Q85.jpg

I had a good poke around the front of the car the other day with an aerosol can (67mm diameter) and because of the location of the front subframe, I can't actually fit anything on the bottom side of the front stone tray/radiator plenum area. Well, not without butchering the stone-tray and completely destroying it's sleeper appeal. Everything is a compromise... :/

INDEEP Apprentice

INDEEP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why not start with a piece of 4" and flatten it out? Need only be about an inch high to offer the same flow area as 2.5" round.

That's not a bad idea. It would slightly affect the airflow by a localised creating a low-pressure area though I think.

I think I'm just going to have a bit of fiddle with it, and see exactly what I can and can't do. Looking at it will only do so much...

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It would slightly affect the airflow by a localised creating a low-pressure area though I think.

I wouldn't stress too much about that. I'm not even sure what you mean by it. (My profession involves flow in pipework, so I know what causes low pressure, when it is a problem and when it isn't a problem, and I'm not sure why you'd think there'd be low pressure in there or why it would be a problem. But nevertheless, let's continue on with my further thoughts).

Logically, if you squash a bit of 4" down until it is completely flat, then there is no flow area inside it at all, and when you leave it iround it has the maximum flow area. So at some point of squashing it down to a float oval it will have a similar area to a 2.5" pipe. That's when it is about 1" high and 5" wide (if it is rectangular, which it won't be, but close enough). Now this squashed pipe has the same flow area as the 2.5" pipe, but it has a lot more circumference (exactly as much as the original 4" pipe) - so it will have more pressure drop along its length than 2.5" pipe would. But that's not a problem - it only has to be 500mm long to go from one side of the engine bay to the other. The hassle will be to merge a bit of 2.5" pipe into one end and out the other without whatever join you have being a flow nightmare. I suspect that you'l have to look at using a 2.5" to 4" cone and try to blend it out that way. If you get desperate to see what I mean in pictures, I'll have to sketch something and upload a photo of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...