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SSS automotive were advertising GTST-4 RB20DET's for around $1000- with warranty

Fark that a good price for a 20....

but mate at the end of the day its ur choice. I too a few weeks ago i was coming from same situation u r and i stayed true to the 20.I would stick with the rb20 because they arent as shit as people say they are and with a good setup and tune they can be a f**king weapon,u can boost the f**k out of em because of there lower compression and if u take care of it it will last you a long time :worship:

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Found this old thread and decided to dig it up.

Cars still off the road, But has the following:

Rb25 from s1 stagea, pulled appart, crack tested, acid dipped, bored & honed.

Weisco forged pistons .5mm o/s

Tomei poncams

Tomei valve springs

Acl race series bearings (full set)

Arp head stud kit

Cometic 1.01mm head gasket

+ new oem gasket kit ;) + porting etc.

All from www.rawbrokerage.com parts were cheaper than my engine builder could get in, very happy with their service.

Motors ready to go, now I'm sorting out my loom options, and once it's running will be coupled with ext gate gtx3076, e85 and 20-22psi. Aiming for 300-350awkw. So much for 250 awkw haha!

Build thread coming soon

Cheers for everyone's help, took me a while to wake up to the 25, the 20 can be a paperweight.

If you have a S1 stagea motor the ecu will be no good to you as it can't be Nistuned. Look for an R33 loom and then you can fit a Z32 ecu to Nistune or put a Link or Vipec in the R33 case. Trick wire to look for: the one from TPS to Atessa.

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