Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Engine Flush


Recommended Posts

Its easy to talk shit on the net isn't it. You blokes keep believing that petrol goes in the oil hole. :worship:

you do realise theres a BIG different between petrol and diesel yer? because running petrol would be kinda gay, diesel not so gay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you do realise theres a BIG different between petrol and diesel yer? because running petrol would be kinda gay, diesel not so gay

Mate you say there is a big difference between diesel and petrol. Yeah there is a SLIGHT difference. You do realize there is a BIG difference between oil and diesel yer? Sarcasm meant but no offense. :thumbsup: How much 'oil' pressure do you reckon you would get running something so thin through your motor? The likelihood of scoring the big end bearings would be very high.The mains might be alright but there is still a very high risk there also. Its not that hard to pull an engine to bits, clean it properly and put it back together. Sure you can take shortcuts and still drive it away. But would you take the risk?

So if anyone here can back up their words then do it. Get out your camera and film the diesel, petrol or kero going in the oil filler hole. Start the vehicle and show us the oil pressure gauge. Film the bottom end knock that will ensue. Grow a pair, put up or shutup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mate you say there is a big difference between diesel and petrol. Yeah there is a SLIGHT difference. You do realize there is a BIG difference between oil and diesel yer? Sarcasm meant but no offense. :thumbsup: How much 'oil' pressure do you reckon you would get running something so thin through your motor? The likelihood of scoring the big end bearings would be very high.The mains might be alright but there is still a very high risk there also. Its not that hard to pull an engine to bits, clean it properly and put it back together. Sure you can take shortcuts and still drive it away. But would you take the risk?

So if anyone here can back up their words then do it. Get out your camera and film the diesel, petrol or kero going in the oil filler hole. Start the vehicle and show us the oil pressure gauge. Film the bottom end knock that will ensue. Grow a pair, put up or shutup.

lol :)

You aren't meant to start it fool.

My understanding is you take plugs out and block the plug holes. then crank the engine over and over with the starter motor or manually.

Turning the car on would be stupid. the "run" meant "put" when saying run diesel through it.

lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A while ago I replaced a head on an RB30, and while the head was off I flushed the block with white spirits.

Motor still runs fine today. But of course it may be a different story if its been sitting around for a while full of milk - if you havent had a look at the bores

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol :)

You aren't meant to start it fool.

My understanding is you take plugs out and block the plug holes. then crank the engine over and over with the starter motor or manually.

Turning the car on would be stupid. the "run" meant "put" when saying run diesel through it.

lol.

Wait what? Cranking the engine and starting the engine will do the same thing, they both turn the engine. How is the motor is turning off the starter motor instead of it's own power going to end any better if it doesn't have enough lubrication??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wait what? Cranking the engine and starting the engine will do the same thing, they both turn the engine. How is the motor is turning off the starter motor instead of it's own power going to end any better if it doesn't have enough lubrication??

hey,im no engine master. I just know there's more than one way to skin a cat.

That's just my understanding of the method. and isnt there a significant different in just cranking over as opposed to actually starting the engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you change your oil every 5,000k why would you need to clean it ? What about your oil filter ? Doesn't that get changed to ? If your engine is filled with sludge and carbon deposits take it apart and clean it. Alternatively, water injection setup and engine doesn't get any carbon buildup. I'll go out on a limb here and say this, in my 51 years on this planet racing and building motorcross bikes, super bikes, classic Chevy cars and in the last ten years Skylines, I have never seen anything good come of engine flushing. There is alot more to the damage you can cause with running anything other than the apropriate oil. How about engine seals, bearing failure within seconds, even just turning it over with the starter. Metal against metal chaps, not good. And for my number one disaster after engine flushing, Lifters playing a symphony of various metalic melodies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey,im no engine master. I just know there's more than one way to skin a cat.

That's just my understanding of the method. and isnt there a significant different in just cranking over as opposed to actually starting the engine?

Yeh you keep saying that but we're not skinning cats.

What is significantly different? They both turn the motor. Cranking uses the power of the starter motor to do so and then once it's running the engine can use it's own power. Essentially the only difference is the RPM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh yes and RPM makes no significant difference with engines now does it? :)

Dude.

It's metal on metal, without sufficient lubrication it doesn't matter what RPM your engine is spinning at. MAYBE if you were using unregulated diesel fuel or bio-diesel instead of the reformulated stuff sold in Australia, the sulfur would provide better lubricity. But I highly doubt anyone is going to use expensive B100 to flush out their engine, so you are essentially using something with almost the same viscosity and anti-wear properties as water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted 19 August 2011 - 01:38 AM BY 045HOW

had a dickhead i know say to me tonight that V35 skylines have a 3.6 litre inline 6.

i said wanna bet. he said yeah 20 bucks. wham bam you know what happened.

didnt pay up. told him someone is gonna punch him out some day and left it at that cause i didnt realllly care.

Mate you are all talk. Leave the car advice for blokes who know what they are on about. SAU is for fostering good will and a healthy respect between members and the import scene. You are doing the opposite of this. I think you need to listen to your own advice pal.

:ban:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you change your oil every 5,000k why would you need to clean it ? What about your oil filter ? Doesn't that get changed to ? If your engine is filled with sludge and carbon deposits take it apart and clean it. Alternatively, water injection setup and engine doesn't get any carbon buildup. I'll go out on a limb here and say this, in my 51 years on this planet racing and building motorcross bikes, super bikes, classic Chevy cars and in the last ten years Skylines, I have never seen anything good come of engine flushing. There is alot more to the damage you can cause with running anything other than the apropriate oil. How about engine seals, bearing failure within seconds, even just turning it over with the starter. Metal against metal chaps, not good. And for my number one disaster after engine flushing, Lifters playing a symphony of various metalic melodies.

^The topic is about my blown head gasket and what I need to do to clean the engine..^

All right so what i am getting from all this is I should flush my engine with diesel....I have never done this so I don't know if it really works or wrecks things but thinking logically I really don't know why anyone in their right mind would do this..... And this is the first time I have ever heard of anyone doing this.... However if it works for people who believe in this method than each to their own, but i personally don't like the idea.

From what I have learnt over the years engine flushing should be done with proper brand name engine flush oil additive from Martini or something and should only be done on brand new engines to avoid any build-up of shit throughout the engines life.

I asked the question hoping that someone who builds these engines could give me a straight and logical answer.

As far as I can see, after I remove the head I will need to check the bores for rust and remove the oil pan to check the condition of the bottom end. If there is any rust present and/or the whole engine is contaminated with water/oil sludge then it will have to be stripped down, cleaned and reassembled.

Right?

And if you people are going to argue, please f..k off and do it somewhere else. A mature discussion would be preferential. Yes we don't all agree with each other but we don't need to degenerate ourselves to bickering, name calling children.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes rebuilding or even inspecting the bottom end isn't an option. Sometimes (when broke or toolless) I have just cleaned what I could from the rocker cover and valvetrain assy with a rag. Then after fixing the head gasket I have put cheap oil in. Then having gone for a drive, it is essentially flushing the oil/water emulsion out with cheap oil. Do this once or twice before putting your good oil in. Cheap oil is only about ten dollars for 4 litres. This may not clean out the hydraulic lifters tho as the holes in them are pretty small. Mate it all comes down to what you can afford and what tools are at your disposal. If you can, pull it down and clean it out and reassemble. If you cant then an oil flush may be a suitable option for you. As previously mentioned there is a good chance that the bottom end copped it from the watered down oil. If you can hear it knocking after new oil is in then you are up the creek so to speak. If there is no knock then don't worry about it. Yes your engine will have lost some life but if its not knocking and there is decent oil pressure then you are home safe. Dont be too concerned about lifter noise as it will usually disappear after a time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted 19 August 2011 - 01:38 AM BY 045HOW

had a dickhead i know say to me tonight that V35 skylines have a 3.6 litre inline 6.

i said wanna bet. he said yeah 20 bucks. wham bam you know what happened.

didnt pay up. told him someone is gonna punch him out some day and left it at that cause i didnt realllly care.

Mate you are all talk. Leave the car advice for blokes who know what they are on about. SAU is for fostering good will and a healthy respect between members and the import scene. You are doing the opposite of this. I think you need to listen to your own advice pal.

:ban:

So i agree on a bet with someone i know who then won't pay up when proven wrong and i leave it because i know them and aren't too buzzed about getting the money out of them and just want to have a good night. why i said someday someone will punch him out was friendly advice to him in regards to making bets in a pub/club environment.

A bet is a bet and if a man doesn't have his word what does he have?

I don't see how that is any evidence of me being an unwanted useless member of this forum.

I will admit i have been somewhat abrasive and trollish in this thread. its gone beyond arguing a point and for that i apologise as this is not a forum for petty beefs centered around beef (there are other forums for this). Lets call it quits and resume our love for the skyline :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as the head goes it will be given to a shop for reco and have the face shaved and slightly thicker head gasket will be used. If i can get away with leaving the bottom end i will but if not I will rebuild it. I have a R34 neo sitting around so I may have to swap it in... I didn't want to because of having to re-wire...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i agree on a bet with someone i know who then won't pay up when proven wrong and i leave it because i know them and aren't too buzzed about getting the money out of them and just want to have a good night. why i said someday someone will punch him out was friendly advice to him in regards to making bets in a pub/club environment.

A bet is a bet and if a man doesn't have his word what does he have?

I don't see how that is any evidence of me being an unwanted useless member of this forum.

I will admit i have been somewhat abrasive and trollish in this thread. its gone beyond arguing a point and for that i apologise as this is not a forum for petty beefs centered around beef (there are other forums for this). Lets call it quits and resume our love for the skyline :)

Fair enough then. Its not that you are unwanted or useless but some of those comments were. Clearly we are here to support each other in our skylinelyness and should remain so. No hard feelings. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 
    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
×
×
  • Create New...