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RB26 Stuff below has traveled 5,000 k's unless otherwise stated. Car is being build now with a stroker and external oil pump.

Splitfire coils to suit RB25/26, perfect working order $400

HKS RB cam gears $200

Genuine Bosch Indy Blue's set of 4, less than 3,000 km's of work $400

RB26 N1 oil pump, 5,000 km's old $200

86.5mm (20 thou) CP Forged Pistons and shot peened factory rods with ARP bolts, top nick, have travelled 5,000 km's. Have produced 580kW aty the wheels on E85, upgrading to stroker engine

$500

S13 / SR20 / Universal bits

SR20VE NEO VVL P11 head - complete, low kms

It comes with the stuff you need for a conversion, VVL solenoids, cams and lower runners which gives you the option to run a bolt on plenum to suit RWD conversion.

No matter what you do to your DET head, you'll be hard pressed doing better than one of these in stock form.

$1300 FIRM, pickup welcome in Sydney, delivery at your expense!

BE QUICK! These are very hard to get!

SR20DE head, top condition no cams, shims or rockers but has cam caps $100

SR20DET Cams, good condition $50

S13 ARC front sway bar, it's a monster of a thing very thick $150

2 x S13 dashes, one is average condition, it has some scratches and wear marks but no major cracks $50

The other came out of my S13, it has been cut to suit a weld in roll cage and 3 perfect holes cut for 60mm gauges (I had Defi BF's in it) Perfect condition otherwise no scratches, nothing! $50

Greddy blue oil cap decent condition $30

Trust/GREX chrome ball gear knob (to suit a Honda) $50

Universal complete 4" Induction kit to suit SR/RB, includes pipe, silicone hoses, clamps and K & N air filter. Will suit GT30/3076/3037S/GT35/T04Z black or blue silicone $250

Pics available on request

Located in Sydney Inner West/West

Call PJ: 0438 1600 81

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
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