Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Only if this was in nsw ...

Consider that it wouldn't cost you much at all to fly down to Melbourne to take a look at it. And it'll only cost you two tanks of petrol to drive it home... [bTW, I'm not related to the seller in any way/shape/form, just pointing out the obvious.]

To the OP, best of luck with your sale. I think it's a very fairly priced R32 GT-R and if it wasn't grey, I most likely would've already taken the trip down to Melbourne to inspect it by now.

Consider that it wouldn't cost you much at all to fly down to Melbourne to take a look at it. And it'll only cost you two tanks of petrol to drive it home... [bTW, I'm not related to the seller in any way/shape/form, just pointing out the obvious.]

To the OP, best of luck with your sale. I think it's a very fairly priced R32 GT-R and if it wasn't grey, I most likely would've already taken the trip down to Melbourne to inspect it by now.

thanks man, very hard to find a R32 GTR in clean and unmolested condition historic car

Does it cost/trouble much to register a VIC GTR to have NSW number plate?

and what's normal transport cost to bring a car to Sydney?

Edited by kor_gtr32

Does it cost/trouble much to register a VIC GTR to have NSW number plate?

and what's normal transport cost to bring a car to Sydney?

you will need a blue slip done (only costs about $50 i think). Transport will vary depending which company you go to, but i got a car transported to syd fron WA and it cost only $700 or so.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...