Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you read the thread? I'm struggling to understand why you'd ask that given the half a dozen posts so far...

All the replies clearly say you won't MAKE extra power, torque, or BOV noises swapping the AFM.

sorry just trying to figure out at what point the 20cells for example max out, say for example if the 20cells span from idle accross to 225kw and your making 250kw's, then i was wondering if the z32 then becomes better for tuning and better graph, or do you somehow guess what the voltage would be or somting, my knowledge is lacking here so thats why im asking.

your getting mixxed up. the ecu simply reads the afm voltage and uses this to determine load and therefore the correct amount of fuel and timing. all nissan AFM's max out at 5.1v, but they dont flow the same amount of air at 5.1v. the standard rb25 afm's hit 5.1v at around 200-240rwkw, depending on the car, and run out of resolution, the car can still make more power but having the afm maxxed out makes tuning above that rough and dangerous. a z32 afm is simply calibrated differently and flows more air before maxxing out, which allows the ecu to accurately measure load up to a higher power level.

the afm does not max out at the same point as the ecu's load cells, in the power fc example i gave the standard afm would max out around p15 or p16, just over half the load of the last load point of the map. the ecu uses the afm to determine load then uses the map (load vs rpm) to determine fuel and timing, they're seperate things.

your getting mixxed up. the ecu simply reads the afm voltage and uses this to determine load and therefore the correct amount of fuel and timing. all nissan AFM's max out at 5.1v, but they dont flow the same amount of air at 5.1v. the standard rb25 afm's hit 5.1v at around 200-240rwkw, depending on the car, and run out of resolution, the car can still make more power but having the afm maxxed out makes tuning above that rough and dangerous. a z32 afm is simply calibrated differently and flows more air before maxxing out, which allows the ecu to accurately measure load up to a higher power level.

the afm does not max out at the same point as the ecu's load cells, in the power fc example i gave the standard afm would max out around p15 or p16, just over half the load of the last load point of the map. the ecu uses the afm to determine load then uses the map (load vs rpm) to determine fuel and timing, they're seperate things.

thanks thats the answer i was looking for, good info..:no:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...