Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 gtst sluggsh when cold


Recommended Posts

Guest Jordy32

hi guys, just wondering if any one has had this problem with there rb20 at all & if so whats wrong???

when the engine is cold, for the first 5mins or so of driving the engine seems to bog down for a little bit then cleans up, only noticable when driving. feels like someone keeps shoving thier foot up my exhaust. it does this on & off for about 5mins of driving. when its warmed up its fine. whats the story????

dont know if its a oxygen sensor or water temp sensor, cause it seems to be only when the engine is warning up??

any ideas???

thanx guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37554-r32-gtst-sluggsh-when-cold/
Share on other sites

My 33GTR does a similar thing... not for as long tho - only first minute or two when cold. The acceleration isn't smooth (i dont let it rev high when its cold anyway) but after a couple of minutes when its warmed a little its smooth as...

its like i keep my foot on the gas the same amount but the car jitters, like instead of just accelerating in a smooth line, it jumps a tiny bit.. hard to explain

My R32 gtst does this exact same thing too. Joel made some good points about his car doing it too, said it was his TPS. I haven't adjusted mine, simply cause when it hits halfway on my temp guage (ie- its warmed up), it goes away.

Do a search, theres been heaps of discussion on this before.

Steve :thumbsup:

yeah i had this problem with the std ecu, impossible to drive it over 2000rpm just wont rev but boosts and blows clouds of black fuel out the back. seems like the ecu retards ignition when cold, only started doing it after getting the safc tuned tho

sounds like majority of 'line owners have this problem, from the R30's to the R33's so i guess its common and built into the ECU as the others have explained. My car does the same, doesnt rev smoothly over 3500rpm, but as its warmed up it nice and smooth. cold starts, live with it!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jordy My GTS-X does exactly as you discribe and I have been chasing the problem for over a year, I have replaced all sensors had AFM tested and swapped, ECU swapped, tested coil packs and still there. The only thing I havent changed are the injectors and ignitor so they are next in the line. The car should not do this, there is an inherent problem with lines just need to find it, as people have said they just put up with it, It drives me nuts and wont put up with it, just need the money to continue with my quest.

I was under the impression that you shouldn’t really drive them until the temp gauge is near halfway “optimum temp”. For all those guys making over 200rwkw’s I though it would be best to leave the car idle for at least 5mins before driving. I find that if I am in a hurry the car runs fine if I give it minimum throttle and stay under 2000 RPM’s.

My RB30 Sillhoutte that I had before the GTS-X would fire up on the coldest of mornings with a flick of the ignition and was drivable straight away and it would drive cold the same as when warm, would not miss a beat, so I know how they should run :cheers: I just need to get my RB20 to do the same

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...