Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah yeah, searched various sections. I'm sick of starting threads too...so just want concise answers please :)

my pedal bracket snapped, as they do. Now it's easily fixed up by frankenstein-style welding that shit - but I need to remove it. I'm not at all interested in dismantling my dash (at least not too much) so I want to know - has anyone removed it on a GTS-T without taking their dash out? Is it doable? I've heard speculation that the bracket itself is actually spot-welded onto the firewall as well as bolted in, true?

If anyone has pics of the standard pedal bracket out of the car, it would be much appreciated so I can see where the mounting points are :D

post-60560-0-40915300-1315026344_thumb.jpg

that's what's up with mine. Easy fix, if I can get it out.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376086-r33-gts-t-clutch-pedal-bracket/
Share on other sites

Easy as.

- Undo the 2 nuts on the master cylinder in the engine bay.

- Get a torch and pull the pin on the clutch cylinder rod.

- Unplug the clutch pedal switch

- Undo bolt pointing straight up hold pedal box.

Wiggle it out. Should take about about 30mins first time.

  • Like 1

Its not a bitch, just a tight space. As the other guys have said its that easy. Once you've welded it back up, paint it silver then you can say it's a nismo unit. Cos thats all they do

I've found the final mounting point of the bracket. There is NO WAY you can undo it. It's up the very top of the bracket.

Unless there's something different about my pedal bracket, I call bullshit that anyone has ever done this with the dash in place.

I have, a few times. I use a 3/8 drive swivel socket, 12mm from memory. Got a kid nearby with skinny hands??

swivel socket = effectively a U-joint?

looking at pics of the "Nismo" replacement, I'll be using a long extension for the socket and going straight up IN FRONT of the pedal itself?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=86651&group_ID=325&store=&dir=catalog

Something like that sucker, 3/8 drive rachet, 120mm extension and socket. Dunno why yours is being so difficult

ok all good mate, got it done.

Mine was so difficult because it took me forever to find that last bolt, and then because of how I discovered it I concluded it wasn't possible to get to.

Ended up just using the larger ratchet drive (since I don't have any small drive 12mm sockets) and a really long extension.

And it's back in. I must say, putting it back in was MILLIONS times more difficult than pulling it out. That bolt I was having trouble finding was a PRICK to get back in :(

Either way, she's welded up nicely (read: horribly. We used an arc welder - blew a few holes through the bracket rofl) and back in. Only downside is my battery went flat from having the door open all the time :(

Thanks for the help guys!

  • 3 years later...

WOW I have never pulled out a clutch peddle befor and got it out in about 20 minutes, welded it up and back it took no longer than 1 hour. only 2 nuts, 1 bolt and a pin. super easy !! but I am a bike mechanic so it would be easier than if you have never really done this be for but very good to learn how to fix these small things rather than paying someone probably about $400 to fix it for you

Yes not that difficult, but I found breaking other items was the worst part, boot release for example.

So whenever I'm working on/under/around the dash, out come the front seats first thing.

Then unbolt the boot release as the handle is flimsy plastic and if you accidentally sit on it, she'll break.

Toss in a few bags of rags to lie on and I'm ready to go.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...