Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, i have a 1999 nissan stagea rs4 rb25det neo 5 speed manual and having some issues! the car idles fine and revs fine when stationary but when i attempt to drive the car it hits fuel cut under any amount of throttle, iv gone over and checked for vacuum leaks everything appears good car is running standard boost it cuts out even before it reaches boost what could be causing this? crank angle sensor? airflow meter? when the car cuts out it doesn't stall just cuts fuel and wont allow me to accelerate doesn't back fire or sound like a misfire any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376139-possible-fuel-cut/
Share on other sites

If your running FMIC check for leaks, split or dislodged hose etc. Check the AFM connection and give the AFM a good squirt of throttle body cleaner, also do the TB

It sounds like its in limp so could be any of the above. Our C34 N/A went like that and it was the timing belt. The tensioner had seized and laminated the belt which jumped a couple of teeth. This threw the car into Limp.

checked and cleaned everything all intake hose's tight and not leaking still doing it could it be the turbosmart bov im going to chase up a standard bov and try that if that doesn't work would the CAS cause this issue. it will rev fine in neutral with out any issues and idles perfect like there is no leaks only does it when i try and drive. ( Anyone got a standard BOV in Brisbane want to swap or sell for cheap or free ) i cleaned out the fuel filter also seems fine :(

when you say it cuts out do your mean it just feels like its being held back, or the engine literally cuts out for a second? if it just feels like its holding back you could be onto something with the bov, possibly leaking? faulty AFM will cause poor performance as hugh mentioned. if your getting a full engine cut it could be a faulty map sensor causing the ecu to think you've over boosted.

i'm in brissy and have a stock bov your welcome to have (for free) if you want to come and get it. i've also got a consult cable and software i can hook up to the ecu and have a look at what all the sensors are doing. let me know if your keen, i'm in Cannon Hill (south side).

Edited by QWK32

QWK32 that would be great if you could hook up the software and find out for me. what i mean by cutting out, it feels as though it just stops fuel getting to the motor the car will start to accelerate then its like some one has cut the throttle cable just cuts out before boost is even reached but doesn't stall and if i put the clutch in i can still rev it and release the clutch and i am able to limp it home providing i don't give it to much throttle? im located in Kenmore (west side) the car does not drive so i wont be able to come to you?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...