Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

JSAI is not bad at all. My Ztune kit is from them, i had it painted, and i fitted it on my own in my garage in one night. He delivered it fast, price is good, and the fitment is great with all nuts, washers, etc supplied.

You can also try Empire Aero who is a sponsor on here.

The FRP kits are decent quality and very well priced, pics of the kit on my car if you like?

i dont know why you guys bother fitting non genuine parts to your cars

you can so tell the difference when fitted

That's rich coming from someone who has a vested interest in selling overpriced parts from Japan :rolleyes:

The simple fact that is that any mods you make on your car you will never get back in $$ value. You could easily blow 100k modding a 34 GTR with brand name bits, sure i agree the quality is much better, but you need to make a compromise somewhere on a 10 year old car. When you come to sell a 34 that owes you 150k, you put it up for 70k and dudes come round saying "too expensive braaa, there's cheaper ones on carsalez, i'll give you 45k cuz-e"

i dont know why you guys bother fitting non genuine parts to your cars

you can so tell the difference when fitted

Full genuine kit: ~$15,000 shipped.

Decent fiberglass copy: ~$2000 shipped.

For wheels, engine mods etc. I totally agree. But when we're talking $10,000+ difference in price.. for a difference in finish only someone who looked very closely at the car can notice.. and even then might not even be able to.. blink.gif

just got my jsai ztune kit fitted

the sides and rear skirts are not bad

the front bar os f*kin terrible seriously how can you produce a mould with gaps like that

my panel beater needs another day of bracing, bolting and moving around of my factory supports to help it sit flush

there is jel coat cracks in the fibreglass aswell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.
    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
×
×
  • Create New...