Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have been looking for a replacement front bar but can't finf one that looks the same as the original, the closest I can find is the "N Style" bar from carmate, empire aero etc.

Has anyone seen a replacement bar similiar to the attached photo, barring an original from Nissan (to pricey) the bar is pretty well had it (dead kangaroo on the middle of the road) but the black plastic piece between the bar and the diffuser is allright and can be used again.

I preffer the look of the original bar with the black plastic section as opposed to the one piece one colour of the N Style bar but can't find a replacement one similiar to the original.

.

edit second attached photo is the one I am trying to find, if anyone knows if someone makes a copy please let me know where and who. Thanks

post-78962-0-33464700-1315377119_thumb.jpg

post-78962-0-16665000-1315377942_thumb.jpg

Edited by thatlbeme
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376500-replacement-front-bar-for-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link 10 4, no luck there.

Turns out the front bar I wrecked was a Nismo bar, not the original bar as I thought.

Might be worth trying to get it repaired as it was a good fit for a fiberglass bar, failing that then the N Style bars might be my best bet.

  • 3 weeks later...

if you want a copy, get it from bodyform aero

True...

Peter at Bodyform Aero has a 'dig' at other ppl's ill-fitting aftermarket bars.

Best to use his Mob: 0416.243.098

New Addy: 7/179 Woodpark Rd Smithfield

bodyformaero.com.au

if you want a copy, get it from bodyform aero

True...

Peter at Bodyform Aero has a 'dig' at other ppl's ill-fitting aftermarket bars.

Best to use his Mob: 0416.243.098

New Addy: 7/179 Woodpark Rd Smithfield

bodyformaero.com.au

+1 got my front from them and it fitted first time and is pretty strong, good place to buy from

Don't get fibreglass.... its crap and chips easily - looks bad...

try http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5752743 ? Might get lucky...

Only if it's cheaply made man, fiberglass is strong stuff when it's made properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...