Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2001 300gt sedan, was putting in another lighter plug in middle consol bit today went to start car incase batt was going flat and nothing, all dash lights,windows eveything working but wont start, had aa guy come out he told me theres no power going to starter motor, a month ago the alarm key got lost, have been using a normal 10$ key cut since and has been working fine, has somthing iv done triggered the immobiliser to go off maybe?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376774-help-car-immoblised/
Share on other sites

2001 300gt sedan, was putting in another lighter plug in middle consol bit today went to start car incase batt was going flat and nothing, all dash lights,windows eveything working but wont start, had aa guy come out he told me theres no power going to starter motor, a month ago the alarm key got lost, have been using a normal 10$ key cut since and has been working fine, has somthing iv done triggered the immobiliser to go off maybe?

Do your front lights flash after you try to start it - in which case it could be the stock immobiliser. Otherwise, if it's an automatic, could you have inadvertently disconnected the sensor which tells the car you're in Park (car will not start if it isn't in Park).

Just ideas...

Nope no flashing, yes auto, will have a look to see if i have

thanks

Do your front lights flash after you try to start it - in which case it could be the stock immobiliser. Otherwise, if it's an automatic, could you have inadvertently disconnected the sensor which tells the car you're in Park (car will not start if it isn't in Park).

Just ideas...

Couldnt see anything had been disconnected all tho i didnt really know what i was looking for, noticed on the dash nothing is showing up where should say d,n,r or what ever, battery looks to have just died the first thing i thought when it didnt start was battery so i hooked jumper leads up and didnt do anything aa guy also tryed to, so with in 20mins my batt has died..dont know if this has somthing to do with it or just coincidence or what

Nope no flashing, yes auto, will have a look to see if i have

thanks

Couldnt see anything had been disconnected all tho i didnt really know what i was looking for, noticed on the dash nothing is showing up where should say d,n,r or what ever, battery looks to have just died the first thing i thought when it didnt start was battery so i hooked jumper leads up and didnt do anything aa guy also tryed to, so with in 20mins my batt has died..dont know if this has somthing to do with it or just coincidence or what

If you have no dash lights then you have most likely blown a fuse. There is a tail light or wiper fuse i think in drivers kick panel so check there.

Have dash lights, was meaning where it has the little letter as to what gear your in is lit up but not showing any letter

If you have no dash lights then you have most likely blown a fuse. There is a tail light or wiper fuse i think in drivers kick panel so check there.

It was a standard nissan alarm key, i was suprised it worked with a normal key as the alarm was activated when key was lost, when i unlocked door with normal key it beeped for a bit put it in ignition and worked,.

How did you just use a normal key and not your alarm key?

Your gonna have to get in contact with your alarm maker and get the override code for the alarm and then get another key asap.

if you can tell them how it happened - yes. the dealer fitted immobiliser should have been pulled when compliance was done. the other one (compliance fitted) may be simply hacked into place and quite easily removed.

without the car in front of me I am simply pulling straws.

i dont know if we have same complience thing here in nz, was looking under dash and found a nissan alarm box, but theres a few wires going here and there that definatly dont look factory, guess ill get an auto elec to check it out and hope for the best.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...