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Rb30 bottom end for 300rwks....errr nup

simple Bolt on GT3076, injectors and Nistune...bam there is 300rwkws

As for 300+ being useless and people will die using standard brakes and coilovers....errrm...sure...if you say so

I know its hard to hear as a newbie to search, you just want to hear the answers. But the answer is it depends on so many different things about what you want out of the car, which you havent specified. The best way to understand this is to read through the different topics on this forum and get a good overall understanding. If I was going to drop $20k to modify a car I would be researching the crap out of it.

Important things which I was not aware of before owning a rwd skyline:

- Lag, being a small 2.5L engine if you go for any more than 250rwkw on 98 fuel then you will notice an increase in lag. This continues to increase as you go higher in power. Over 300rwkw and you wont be seeing full boost to after 4000rpm at best. That only leaves you with less than 3000rpm of useable power assuming the standard rev limiter. But since you are talking about building the engine you could potentially raise the rev limiter with the right engine mods and this could be ok

- Traction with a rwd, even the standard turbo with a few mods and tune can be hard to launch in 1st gear without heavily breaking traction (with standard type tyres). I have 280rwkw and it can break traction in second gear even with wide grippy tyres.

- Axle tramp, I experienced a fair bit of axle tramp (wheels bouncing up and down as you break and regain traction), to resolve this you need to address the suspension which can be tricky to work out what is causing it. Super stiff coilovers can make this worse.

- Fast, the other thing is how fast a skyline can be without huge power figures. They are a lighter car and dont need the huge power figures of an XR6 Turbo to be fast. My car with 280rwkw is very quick, I would expect to run high 11 second 1/4s with a good launch and is plenty for the street.

Have a good think about it all and do plenty of research. If your talking about dropping a tonne of cash then I would look at a GTR, that way it should hold its value better and you have some hope of getting big power to the ground.

Best of luck!

It's a spring loaded momentary switch. Press it once, that should turn TCS off (and light in the dash), press it again TCS on (light off).

Are you sure TCS is operating? (Can check this pretty easy comparison with TCS fuse removed) Have you checked to see if the TCS switch is plugged in? (People often unplug it when doing work under the dash) Does the TCS bulb in the dash light up when you turn the ignition on (but don't start)?

checked the switch its plugged in, the light comes on when the ignition is turned on but pressing the switch has no effect traction control is always on :-(

so does taking the tcs fuse out disable traction control?

Dont be too hard on him... he did own a 4 door r33 after all :ph34r:

Hiya timmy :action-smiley-069:

haha hey how are ya ;-) that was the mrs 33 got flamed for that when i put it on here too dunno why i bother sometimes lol

used to have a r31 wagon sleeper with a rb20det and microtech uleh but never put it on here could only imagine what people would say about its standard brakes lol

checked the switch its plugged in, the light comes on when the ignition is turned on but pressing the switch has no effect traction control is always on :-(

so does taking the tcs fuse out disable traction control?

What makes you think that traction control isn't being disabled? Can you drop the clutch in first and smoke it up?

But yeah just pull the fuse, it stops the module getting power.

Edited by Rolls

yer like i said wouldn't spin no matter what the switch did, pulled the TCS fuse now we can have some fun feels more responsive too

he's taking it up to mercury motorsport in a couple months for turbo fuel pump injectors ecu fmic exhaust and all the other mods to get it to around the 250rwkw mark

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