Jump to content
SAU Community

High And Low Beams

riley

By riley,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

riley Collaborator

riley

Posted
Posted

hey all, ive recently changed my head lights, high beams and fog lights to HIDs problem im having is every one high beams me (i knew this would happen) but when i high beam them back the HIDs need to warm up so it actually looks like low beams lol. on the r33 the high beams and low beams dont run at the same time they switch between each other. but i found that there is a sweet spot on the high/low switch where they can both run at the same time. is there any way that i can get them to both run at the same time when i switch to high beams?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377453-high-and-low-beams/
Share on other sites
jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

That's why you're not supposed to put HIDs in your high-beam. As far as I'm aware, it's even part of the ADRs - and you sure won't even find cars that come from the factory with HIDs with HID high-beam.

You also should consider that the HIDs you've fitted in even your regular beam aren't legal or meeting ADRs. You will run into issues with the police, defect notices, etc. I suspect there are also insurance implications - especially if your non-legal headlights could be blamed for an accident. Either way, do you really want to draw more attention to a car that already has a lot of police attention?

Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't suggest keeping them, I got defected for them within a few weeks of having them. Myself and another mate who has a 33 has also gotten defected for it and we never found a way to angle them down ENOUGH that their still not blinding, definitely not worth the extra light. What I can recommend is the Dual-High Beam mod, done it myself and it's awesome.

riley Collaborator

riley

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's why you're not supposed to put HIDs in your high-beam. As far as I'm aware, it's even part of the ADRs - and you sure won't even find cars that come from the factory with HIDs with HID high-beam.

You also should consider that the HIDs you've fitted in even your regular beam aren't legal or meeting ADRs. You will run into issues with the police, defect notices, etc. I suspect there are also insurance implications - especially if your non-legal headlights could be blamed for an accident. Either way, do you really want to draw more attention to a car that already has a lot of police attention?

lol to answer that question.... i live in darwin. nuf said. lol...cops here have more important things to do here than defect people. im not going to say what because it would be racist lol.

they dont seem to care here. they are definately illegal here, just no one cares. and with the amount of random shit that jumps out of the bushes here u need them to see.

riley Collaborator

riley

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wouldn't suggest keeping them, I got defected for them within a few weeks of having them. Myself and another mate who has a 33 has also gotten defected for it and we never found a way to angle them down ENOUGH that their still not blinding, definitely not worth the extra light. What I can recommend is the Dual-High Beam mod, done it myself and it's awesome.

dual high beam mod? whats this? ne info?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

That's why you're not supposed to put HIDs in your high-beam. As far as I'm aware, it's even part of the ADRs - and you sure won't even find cars that come from the factory with HIDs with HID high-beam.

Nonsense, there's plenty of cars that come factory with HID high-beams. BMW's, Range Rovers, Audi's etc. BMW's just have separate halogen bulbs that are used for the flash function, they aren't used during normal operating.

OP; firstly, just get your low beams adjusted properly so you stop blinding people. Mine used to do the same thing, got them adjusted and now I don't have any issues. Secondly, you can get bi-xenon's which is probably what Borci is talking about. Basically it keeps both high and low beams on at the same time, and has a rotating shield that blocks the light from the high beams when you don't have them on and then flicks out of the way when you turn them on to let the light out.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

I drove in front of a yaris with HID's on the way home tonight f'n annoying, & there's a few 4wd's too with HIDS, I have to fold the mirrors in & angle the rearview mirror down :rant:

Factory Xenons are nowhere near as bad

are all HID's like this or is it just wankers who aren't bothering to adjust their headlights down? :spank:

edit: oh & also when someone with HID's oncoming from the opposite direction grrr

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

I drove in front of a yaris with HID's on the way home tonight f'n annoying, & there's a few 4wd's too with HIDS, I have to fold the mirrors in & angle the rearview mirror down :rant:

Factory Xenons are nowhere near as bad

are all HID's like this or is it just wankers who aren't bothering to adjust their headlights down? :spank:

edit: oh & also when someone with HID's oncoming from the opposite direction grrr

It's mostly because of poor adjustment. I've driven behind friends at night, they said mine aren't too bad. The thing is, headlights go out of adjustment all the time. So lots of people just don't even know.

Factory HID's will have projector housings, so they get a very flat cut-off line. Then most modern cars have self adjusters, so as a car goes over a bump or a hill, the headlights adjust themselves down so they are never pointing into other drivers eyes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...