Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, I don't know if I ask this question in the right place?

I am prepare to purchase a set of Tomei Poncam for my 98 GTT, just want to ask if I replace the stock cams, do I need to change the cam gears as well? Or I can run with stock cam gear?

Thank you everyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377491-about-fitting-tomei-poncam/
Share on other sites

U can run with the stock cam gears if u wish. Make sure the inlet poncam can be used with ur stock variable cam gear before u purchase.

Some people say there is no point running adjustable gears on tomei cams but i have found gains with adj gears

Its not a neccessity but doesnt hurt to just chuck one in if you got the spare money for it.I chucked one in my r33 when I did them but I gained response on standard cam gear setting and didnt get any gains from it so its up to you.

U can run with the stock cam gears if u wish. Make sure the inlet poncam can be used with ur stock variable cam gear before u purchase.

Some people say there is no point running adjustable gears on tomei cams but i have found gains with adj gears

I am going to purchase the Type A Duration Intake: 252 Duration Exhaust: 252 Lift Intake: 9.15mm Lift Exhaust: 9.15mm. I might try the stock cam gear first.

Thank you everyone!

When I installed the poncams on my 25 I bought adjustable cam wheels. Ended up only using the exhaust side because the intake side would have required me to disable the VVT, which is quite effective. So I would only get the exhaust wheel.

Because I have my major service coming up so I want to do some little mod to the car at the same time. My aim is to make the 34 be more responsive and carry out the full potential of the Neo engine. My other part are full 3 inch turbo back exhaust, intercooler, evc and planning to run 14psi at all time. And I saw this cams from the Tomei web site, it claim that it will increase the low and mid range torque with stock ecu and stock turbo. Therefore I just want to know if this will fit my plan and what other little pieces I have to aware for? Thank you

dude, cams on a stock ECU will be a waste of time. instead of spending money buying cams and cam gear and having them intalled (going to run close to $2K all installed). instead get a nistune or power FC and have it tuned. you'll get much better gains that way. putting in some aftermarket cams without re-tuning will have the car making LESS midrange and low down power. getting a tune on the other hand will give you more power EVERYWHERE including low down and midrange. at the most just get an adjustable exhaust cam gear and have it adjusted when you get the tune.

Yeah cams are sort of like the last thing you do after youve done all the basic bolt ons and just want to improve mid range abit. Definately not a starting modwaste of time if dont have all the suporting mods.

apart from that with a stock ECU the car will be much worse than it was everywhere. they change the way the engine breathes. with that change you MUST alter the tune. with a stock ECU it's going to be terrible.

and even if you had all the other gear they are not likely to improve response/low down power. they shift the powerband and in this case they'll be shifting it further up the RPM band, not further down.

spend the money on an ECU and tune instead. that will give you actual good results. you car will have more power everywhere and most probably better economy too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...