Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day everyone

Done a search, even found an old thread I started years ago on this topic but at that time no one really seemed to know the answer. Car is an R32 GTR. We've all seen catch cans that vary in volume from the Nismo oil/air separators that are prob the smallest, to the Greddy type, to the type that mount in front of the battery on an R32, to the type that displace the battery on the 32 all together and are prob > 2 litres volume. Anyone have any evidence-based recommendations for volume?

Also wondering if anyone is running a dedicated sump breather line that goes from the sump to the catch can?

Cheers

I use 3L can. some racing classes have a formula for catch can size based on engine capacity. the reason being if the engine goes bang how much oil/crap can it pump out before it's shut off (to help prevent oil downs on the track).

for an RB26 3L is fine and can fit in front of the battery no problem. sump breather is a good idea. from standard they do breathe through the oil galleries so whether you run the breather from sump up to the covers (which is then vented to a can) or direct to the can it doesn't really matter.

I believe that sucking from the sump is called scavanging which creates a low pressure zone in the sump which in turn releases more power,like a dry sump set up.

Look in the thread about dry sump, lots of cool physics and other cool stuff, good read.

My boat has a 3 ltr can, sump vent / drain back, a lot has to do with the design of the can or more importantly the inside of the can and having return drains on the hot side.

Also the breather at the can needs to be big enough so it doesn't impede the flow.

Cams schedule B section 15 says"

if fitted with any crankcase breather discharging to the atmosphere, each breather be vented into a catch tank of minimum capacity of two litres for engines up to 2000cc or three litres for over 2000cc. Regulations for competitions on unsealed surfaces may waive this requirement;

That is a fair guide to start with.

I'm not sure why it is based on engine capacity not oil capacity but meh!

yep, hence the 3L can on my GTR. I asked the same thing, thinking that a 9L sump still has a lot of oil to spew after the 3L can is full but it's something to do with oil getting into the cylinders and getting pumped out by the now dieing engine. plus not many people could fit a catch can as big as their sump! not sure where we'd put 9L cans...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...