Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys & Girls,

I am looking at buying a cheap r32 gtst to start racing in. The car will still have to be registered as towing it may not be an option at this stage. I would like to start door to door racing and have been reading and searching through the forums looking at the MRA and a few other catagories. What is the best option for me as i am having trouble trying to digest all of the rules and regs for the different catagories. Keeping in mind i would eventually like to start racing more competitively and would like to stick to the r32.

If anyone can point me in the right direction or if there is someone i can ring and speak to about this that would be great. Also where is a good place to look for a cheap r32, i have been keeping a close eye on the classifieds section, my105, etc.

Any help/ suggestions & opinions would be great.

Regards,

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377560-door-to-door-racing/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Daniel,

my105 is a great place to start looking for a track ready car.

only thing is I think you'll find it hard to look for a road registered and log booked track car. Especuially a skyline unless it has race/rally rego already but unsure if that rego can be transfered with purchase (i.e. most states historic rego cannot be transfered so maybe similar)

Id suggest setting a budget.

then double it and go from there!

lol

MRA is actually a cheapish series for racing and a good entry level.

this was my first year.

70 bucks or so for a medical, 100 for AASA national licence and away you go. (you will need to provide evidence of supersprints/prev motorsport or do an OLT)

with MRA - the car will need to be AASA log booked.

If you do iRace it will need to be iRace log booked.

at this stage being entry I'd forget about CAMS events door to door as your car may not be eliglble.

(unless it is already CAMS log booked then niiiiice!)

then comes your general maintenance and entry fees, accomodation and transport and food.

for example, my gay MX5 is cheap on tyres and brakes and fuel and parts.

1 set of pads will last over a season same with semi slicks.

accomodation is 50-100 a night prior to MRA in Goulburn.

fuel to and from with tow car and fuel for racing.

aaan thats all I can think off with a daqy on the piss and hope it makes sence!will reread and post againb tomorrow LOL

Cheers,

Chris

Good to hear....MRA and iRace is the place for sure, nice and cheap to get going.

As for where that would take you "seriously", either MRA or iRace will allow you to spend enough to get close to the front of the field, eg rb30/26 at 10" slicks on a 32 gtst. If you want to run CAMS forget a skyline unless you like paying a lot to go slow :(

Thanks guys,

Where is the best place to get the rule book for the MRA series? so that i can start looking around. I beleive the next round of MRA is on the 30th october, will try and get there and have a chat to a few of you guys.

Daniel.

Have done a track day and some driver training I'm my old 306(slightly different). My thought was to do a couple of track days first, im just trying to get my head around all of the different options and what rules are associated with them.

LOL

Im sober now! :teehee:

Yep - next round is 30th October. Its acvtually a 2 day event for Alfa's and swifts and another class, then sunday is the super TT (any car ranging from Ford Escorts to EVO's to HSV's to BMW's etc etc

jump on the MRA website and have a read over some of the stuff :)

cheers,

Chris

The only reason for going a skyline is because i like them. What would be a car that is cheap to start with that i can modify over time and race more seriously moving into cams events, etc (is there such a thing)?

Also the irace looks interesting, rather annoying oran park is no longer around though.

Cheers,

race more seriously moving into cams events,

Also the irace looks interesting, rather annoying oran park is no longer around though.

Cheers,

Not a Skyline

Have a look at the Catagory 2 (2B & 2F) cars in the cams list and find something you like out of that.

Not a Skyline

Have a look at the Catagory 2 (2B & 2F) cars in the cams list and find something you like out of that.

Yeah skylines aren't on the Category 2 list yet (looks sideways at Brad....)

Silvias are becoming popular in CAMS Improved Production racing, and can be as good bang for buck option as any race car will ever be.

Agree Silvias are cheap, but so is a 32 gtst (couple of thousand to buy and cage). If you want to race skylines because you like them (as good a reason as any in my book) and you aren't going to bash your head against the CAMS rules, I think a 32 gtst is a good choice.

Decent suspension layout inc double wishbone front

Lots of aftermarket support

Engines range from $500 wrecker rb20s up to rb26/30 for $$$

Relitively light

Can run very large wheels/tyres, up to 18x10 with GTR front guards.

Thanks guys will keep looking, keep the advice coming it all helps.

SAU should put on an info night for entry level motorsport.

now if only someone would post that in this thread! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376825-wanna-learn-car-stuff/

Yeah skylines aren't on the Category 2 list yet (looks sideways at Brad....)

Agree Silvias are cheap, but so is a 32 gtst (couple of thousand to buy and cage). If you want to race skylines because you like them (as good a reason as any in my book) and you aren't going to bash your head against the CAMS rules, I think a 32 gtst is a good choice.

Decent suspension layout inc double wishbone front

Lots of aftermarket support

Engines range from $500 wrecker rb20s up to rb26/30 for $$$

Relitively light

Can run very large wheels/tyres, up to 18x10 with GTR front guards.

Where do you find one that cheap? i must not know where to look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...