Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The 180sx is actually leaving us next week and going to a new home.

We've got 2 integras, a turbo mx5 and soon the NA 4.0L r32 which are all being used for the school cars.

The integras took some work to get back up to spec after spending a few years being neglected, the r32 is to replace the 180sx and who knows what boz has in mind for the mx5.

The 180sx is actually leaving us next week and going to a new home.

We've got 2 integras, a turbo mx5 and soon the NA 4.0L r32 which are all being used for the school cars.

The integras took some work to get back up to spec after spending a few years being neglected, the r32 is to replace the 180sx and who knows what boz has in mind for the mx5.

Id also look at doing a season of supersprints to see how it all goes first.

i.e. cost wise/car wise - time to get prepared before the event and car set up and alignments done!

all adds up or as uncle jumpstart said I mean Duncan do the state motorkana series!

next year I'll be doing more sprints as its cheaper - it does add up with a mortgage!

Quick look on eBay and I seen 3 decent cars for around the 4-5k mark.

A mate of mine is also about to put up for sale an r32 gts4 which has just had a stagea rb25det engine fitted. It's a few more dollars than those cars but hell fun to drive.

Quick look on eBay and I seen 3 decent cars for around the 4-5k mark.

A mate of mine is also about to put up for sale an r32 gts4 which has just had a stagea rb25det engine fitted. It's a few more dollars than those cars but hell fun to drive.

how much is he selling it for?

  • 3 weeks later...

Gents,

Hope all is well.

Digging up an older thread, there only seems to be rules for the mini's on the MRA website, i tried emailing one of the contacts on the website with no luck. Can someone tell me where to get the regs for the other classes.

By the way i will be keeping the R33 and using it.

Cheers,

Daniel

http://www.mraseries.com.au/documents/2011/series/2011%20MRA%20Vehicle%20Regulations.pdf

If you wanted to enter the Skyline, you would be class C or Class D (depending on treaded or slick tyres)

Category: Combined Sedans / Super TT

Rules of Competition.

1. The body shape must be a sedan or coupe.

2. All cars must comply with the relevant CAMS category rules that the car was built too.

3. Competitors are eligible for points upon payment of an annual Eligibility Fee (currently $30),to be

applied by the MRA toward operating costs (trophies etc). Competitors must ensure the MRA

Secretary receives this Fee prior to practice at the first meeting.

4. All competitors are subject to the below class structure.

5. Capacity multipliers for turbo, supercharged and rotaries will apply to all cars.

Classes.

Class A Over 2L on Slick tyres (2001 cc upwards)

Class B Under 2L on Slick tyres (up to and including 2000 cc)

Class C Over 2L on Treaded tyres (2001 cc upwards)

Class D Under 2L on Treaded tyres (up to and including 2000 cc)

Note:

1. The onus is on the competitor to present their car in a compliant and legal condition.

2. Remember – “If it’s not in the Rules, you can’t do it”.

I have underlined the important bit.

Basically the car needs either a CAMS or AASA log book

If the car is modified, even with just a front mount, the easiest logbook to get would be: Group 3D Sports sedan

From memory there are a couple of guys on here trying to get the R32 and R33 on the Group 2 Sports cars list.

Anyway hope this helps

Andrew

I'll eventually finish something I've been working on.

Just haven't had the time in between preparing and building other peoples cars to get anything of my own done lately.

John decided to keep the 180sx so that build is now back in full swing and has gone spastic, leaves little time for my own cars as we do that after hours instead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...