Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's great mate, but we're talking suck through.

Z24 cranks stroke them out to 2.4L and they go like hell. But it requires a fair bit of work to get a Z crank to fit an L series.

sorry dad . . . just pointing out that carbs and turbos have been used together succesfully for many years to the point where sealed carbs can be ordered off the shelf (mainly for V8s tho)

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The world needs more angry Ford 2.0 pinto's and L20s etc imo

and im a Big engine nutter

my dads always going on about the 2L pinto engines reckons theyr the titty balls haha

are they hard to find?

Not all that common in Aus, more of a UK and USA thing, but im sure they wouldnt be hard to get.

Interestingly though, the YB Cosworth Engine that powered the Sierra/Escort Cosworths was a basically a Pinto Block with the Cosworth twin cam Head fitted.

Huge range of performance parts available in the UK

Im gonna have to stay out of this thread now because im wanting a mk2 Cortina to drop a Pinto into.

Edit

Aussie 4cyl Cortinas had the Pinto Engine so they are out there

also - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ford-escort-2ltr-pinto-/260858153173?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbc5b88d5

If you ever come across a genuine Lotus head at a garage sale, buy it.

A Ford Lotus head in decent nick will fetch upwards of $20k.

On that note, if you ever spot an LZ head, steal it. You could retire on what those things are worth.

Or for that matter a genuine FIA Big Port L series head, bare, will get you nearly $20k.

Make sure you hear it at 1 minute in. Pure magic.

And if you want to hear what nearly 10,000rpm out of a Datsun motor sounds like:

problem with those things is that only the right person will pay that. the rest of the world will just see a ratt old cortina/datto motor.

sweet sounds, i'd have a Lotus cortina, sweet car.

There's plenty of Datsun/Pommy Ford enthusiasts and the internet makes it simple to get in touch with people who will pay those prices.

An FIA head was sold via Ozdat a year or so ago for big, BIG bucks. A post went up and there was genuine interest from a number of parties and it sold within a couple of weeks.

If you ever come across a genuine Lotus head at a garage sale, buy it.

A Ford Lotus head in decent nick will fetch upwards of $20k.

On that note, if you ever spot an LZ head, steal it. You could retire on what those things are worth.

Or for that matter a genuine FIA Big Port L series head, bare, will get you nearly $20k.

Make sure you hear it at 1 minute in. Pure magic.

that video was obviously the aftermarket OS Giken Twin Cam head for the L series motor, not an LZ or FIA head.

that video was obviously the aftermarket OS Giken Twin Cam head for the L series motor, not an LZ or FIA head.

How do you suppose that? Was it the title - "OS Ginken" or the start where it says "OS Ginken"?

  • 2 weeks later...

blow through > draw through.

if you want to run any meaningful boost, this would necessitate the need for some form of charge cooling, do this with your carb now being METERS aware from the motor, you'll have throttle response you can measure with a calender (know somebody that went through this 20+ years ago with an XE falcon).

and its not just a matter of 'sealing' the carb, it needs to be boost referenced on the feed side, as to compensate for the boost moving through the venturi.

blow through > draw through.

if you want to run any meaningful boost, this would necessitate the need for some form of charge cooling, do this with your carb now being METERS aware from the motor, you'll have throttle response you can measure with a calender (know somebody that went through this 20+ years ago with an XE falcon).

and its not just a matter of 'sealing' the carb, it needs to be boost referenced on the feed side, as to compensate for the boost moving through the venturi.

Clearly you've never owned a draw through turbo car.

Clearly you've never owned a draw through turbo car.

no i've been told how bad it was to consider attemtping it. had an L20B datto that would have been a prime candidate too...

so why does nearly every turbo V8 thats out there use blow through instead of draw through? we're talking serious cars, making 4 figure hp, and single digit E.T's

mainly because you can get big 4 barrel carbs designed out of the box for big blow through superchargers/turbos

edit - even those turbos have mega issues, they have to have huge main jets to flow enough fuel at full throttle that they run massivly rich at part throttle (even when setup properly) and while waiting for boost.

youtube some videos on them and listen for the big miss as they go WOT and watch the huge black cloud out the back of the car,

they really are only dyno queens or quater horses that are either at idle or WOT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...