Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So I bought my gtt about 6 months ago and recently bought a boost controller for it.

Me and the guy I bought it off hook up the hoses and while doin that found the turbo, actuator and BOV return Were all T'd together, the guy helping me said this would cut out my two stage boost, meaning I have 7psi all the time I stead of 4 then 7.. So we blocked the BOV return And put the turbo and actuator hose through the hks evc solenoid. So I drove home like that with no electronics and was goin to hook that up at home(it felt sluggish on the way home, suspecting because now it has the 2 stage boost). Hooked it up went for a spin and it was completely different, it took off!!. I read off the monitor 145 kpa!!!! So I unplugged the ebc and ran it how I did all the way home, still overboosting! Not sure what has changed since plugging in the electronics but it hasn't liked it.

I then put the hoses to how it was before we touched it, felt the same as before we did anything. Then connected the turbo outlet to the actuator and it felt the same when I drove it home, little sluggish. Since then I've opened the solenoid up to see if the plunger was stuck. It wasn't, moved nice and freely.

So that is my experience so far.

Question 1: why were those three hoses T'd together?? Is it to get a steady 7psi boost??

Question 2: could my actuator be on the way out and that's why I'm not using a solenoid in the first place??

Question 3: seeing as it works without the solenoid would you guy think that's the problem I'm having??

Any advice or answers will be greatly appreciated,

Jarrad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377837-weird-boost-setup/
Share on other sites

Are you saying the original T did not have any hoses running to the factory solenoid? Then yes this is a way to set the boost without refrence to your ecu. It is perfectly ok - what boost were you reading?

No idea how your HKS ebc is connected but if it is electronic I shouldn't think it would work very well with no power applied to it.

There is no reason to suppose your actuator is faulty. I am not clear what problem you are having except that you haven't connected your ebc correctly.

Those three hoses I mentioned were T'd together and no hoses were connected to the standard solenoid.

Well I'm not sure I only have the stock boost gauge, but it felt like 7psi all the time.

I was told it'd run like stock if Bo power is connected, then I Hooked power up and it's since been maximum boost.

I just read the solenoid is mounted upside down which gravity could be causing it to be closing. I'll try swapping it tonight.

Ok the stock r33 solenoid is hooked up from actuator to solenoid to boost source. But I know the connection your talking about that is hooked up to the BOV return line. I don't remember exactally where it goes as standard but I do know that the Vac hose from the BOV return line MUST be blocked.

Not sure if you have hooked this up somewhere in the system but it is not necessary with an aftermarket boost controller. You will loose all your boost through this line if it is plugged in as it goes to the inlet side of the turbo, therefore is always suction

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...