Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I just got my car tuned with Atr43g3 and it didn't make as much power as I was hoping, infact compared to most other results it's a fair way off.

The car made 320rwhp @ 16psi, now the problem is that when the tuner pushed more than 16 psi it would gain midrange power but the top end would drop off. As it stands it made 300rwhp @ around 4500 rmp & only gained an extra 20 hp over the rest of the rev range which suggests that there may be something wrong.

The specs are:

Rb25det (130000kms)

front mount intercooler

Full 3" exhaust

3" metal intake

850cc injectors

Z32 afm

Brand new oem coil packs

Power FC

Now this car made 255 rwhp with the stock turbo @ 11psi & I would have thought that this turbo would have easily pushed 350-360wrhp (260+rwkw) So does anyone have any ideas?

Also, those figures were on a hub dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377949-atr43g3-low-power/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Blocked Cat converter?

Shit exhaust?

Shit Intercooler?

Could be any of those

Yeah I did think about those, but the exhaust & cat are in good condition & there are no restrictions there but I haven't tested the intercooler. It is a HKS cooler but I guess its possible that here could be something wrong.

Aslo, could it be a valve train issue, ie valve float causing a boost leak?

how do you know there is no restriction?

did you drop the exhaust and run it?

Valve float is a possibility, but would show up as dips in the power curve.

Yeah we did drop the exhaust & test.

Well there are no dips in the curve, the curve looks pretty good (albeit a little laggy) its just down on out put. I will post up the dyno sheet when I get home tonight.

How healthy is the engine?

Any blow by or anything like that?

Starting to run out of options haha

Cam timing could be out?

But apart from that the turbo is another possibility, if you changed nothing else apart from the turbo that could be it.

Or it could be the tuner?

How healthy is the engine?

Any blow by or anything like that?

Starting to run out of options haha

Cam timing could be out?

But apart from that the turbo is another possibility, if you changed nothing else apart from the turbo that could be it.

Or it could be the tuner?

Tuner reckons the engine is pretty healthy, there was a slight film of oil in the cooler pipe but there is bugger all blow by really.

As for timing, to be honest I haven't checked but I would have thought the tuner would have picked that up? Maybe not.

I wouldn't think its the tuner tho, he's one of the best in Perth & has tuned both SimonR32 & Hanaldo's cars with similar (although smaller) hypergear turbo's with impressive results.

In saying that though, I'm not ruling anything out at the moment.

Of course logically the turbo could be the culprit but seems strange that it would make 300hp fairly easily & then just stop making power?

Did adding boost add power? Or did it keep falling over?

No, it didn't make any more power at all. The midrange improved but the top end just kept falling over, which to me sounds like a restriction somewhere.

We are going to re tune on the weekend with E42 (mix of E85 & 98) to see how it responds to that but it should be making a lot more power already.

Just thinking, you havent left a rag or something in the intercooler pipes after changing the turbo.

Sounds dumb but just about everyone has done it.

Hahaha I don't think so, BUT I don't know 100% The tuner had the cooler pipes off as well because it kept popping them off so its definately a possibility.... Might explain why its a little more laggy than I thought it would be :blush:

I will check tonight but I'm pretty certain that isn't the issue.

No, it didn't make any more power at all. The midrange improved but the top end just kept falling over, which to me sounds like a restriction somewhere.

We are going to re tune on the weekend with E42 (mix of E85 & 98) to see how it responds to that but it should be making a lot more power already.

Was there knock? Fuel shouldn't affect anything unless you were getting detonation.

Does Sean have any ideas? Has he checked your EGT's and intake temps??

Edited by Hanaldo

interesting, let me guess this hyperdrives dyno or ovaboost. forget comparing dyno output's from eastern states dyno's if it is on either of those 2.

My old 34 barely made 290hp on hyperdrives yet cars with the same turbo on the east coast were making 350 or some thing silly and my R34 with a RB3025 running a GT3576 made only 370. I have also seen a r33 on hyperdrive's dyno make about the same as yours with a proper GT3071 so it just reads super low compared to other machines.

So what I would suggest is throw the dyno sheet in the bin and take it down the 1/4 mile. As long as it pulls like 14 yo school boy you should be happy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...