Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I pull the head off what would I be looking for? Like detonation and symptoms? Cheers, also it's hit adjustable cam gears etc, can these parts be salvaged for another rb?

um...when you say its hit adjustable cam gears....what are you meaning?

Given cylinder 5 has 0 comp and 4 has only 15psi there is no way on this side on gods good green earth you will be putting those pistons backin with just new rings, if your lucky you will be able to bore out the damage at 40thuo either way at best you will be up for over sized pistons rings HG etc etc, and really why would build a motor and not pay the extra for forged items, suddenly $1500-$2000 for a good condition motor will be cheaper and then can be resold once forged motor built

My last 32 motor had 30psi in cylinder 5 and there was 1cm of the ringlands just gone and a scratch on the bore that wouldn't come out, my guess to get 0psi then he has had the piston and valve come together

Also the fact that he asked if the cam gears can be reused is a sign he is a complete nooob, so another reason why a rebuild would be a bad option.

Noob to skyline scene, yes kind of, I have previously owned a na r31,

I'm not really interested in doing any machine work to this engine at the moment as cash is tight, thinking I'm just going to drop in a wrecker for now aslong as I can find a decent one, as for a rebuild I was wondering iffy adjustable cam gears could be damaged at all from the engines current issues? Yes I'm a noob but I have worked on a lot of cars and as it's a daily drifter one day dedicated, I've been looking into building a 25/30, if my top end just needs a rebuild. But all with time to come, I'll get some pic's up as soon as I can. All the suspensions set up already it's just the engine left

I had a similar issue years ago and it was a f**ked couple of gaskets. Check for leaks

Do you remover anything specific? A mate has a r33 gtr and reckoned it at popped a couple valve stem seals, if it had could this cause low comp?

Before jumping the gun, pull the head off and take a look, it could just be the head gasket blown between 4 and 5 which would explain little to no compression between 2 adjoining cylinders.

If Head gasket looks OK around the sealing ring, look at the bore, if that looks OK start pulling pistons and inspecting them.

Before jumping the gun, pull the head off and take a look, it could just be the head gasket blown between 4 and 5 which would explain little to no compression between 2 adjoining cylinders.

If Head gasket looks OK around the sealing ring, look at the bore, if that looks OK start pulling pistons and inspecting them.

Ok will do and I'll grab some photo's to report back,

Quick question guys while I was pulling stuff to get the head out I noticed my rocker covers are held down by Phillips head screws? I've done many gasket changes before but never have I seen Phillips head screws used for any particular part of an engine besides clamps etc, are rb's like this standard, I wouldn't imagine so but not 100% sure, I pulled the paper work I got with it and it's say all the bolts where replaced at a shop in seven hills, but why would they use Philips heads instead of 8mm hex heads for the rocker covers?

Quick question guys while I was pulling stuff to get the head out I noticed my rocker covers are held down by Phillips head screws? I've done many gasket changes before but never have I seen Phillips head screws used for any particular part of an engine besides clamps etc, are rb's like this standard, I wouldn't imagine so but not 100% sure, I pulled the paper work I got with it and it's say all the bolts where replaced at a shop in seven hills, but why would they use Philips heads instead of 8mm hex heads for the rocker covers?

  • 1 month later...

Okay guys taken some time but have finally gotten around to pulling the head off today, all the pistons except for 3 look in decent condition, 3 has marks on ether side of the piston but no visible marks to the bore, all the valves seam to be fine haven't pulled them put to inspect yet tho. I'll try post some pics up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...