Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I'm building my RB26 and looking at Supertech products

saw this package which is really a good deal:

http://ipg-supertech.com/cart.php?ta...category_id=68

Valve Spring and Titanium Retainer Package ------- SPRK-ts1015/rb26

Supertech Complete Valve set 1.00mm oversize ----NIVN-1032, NEVI-1032

Supertech Bronze Valve Guides --------------------GDE-NSR7-ET

Tomei cams 272 lift 10.25

will be revving 8800 rpms 800+whp

do you recommend using this set up, any bad experience, anybody running them ??

are above parts enough? what do I need more

which springs are more reliable tomei steb 2 valve or supertech ??

does it worth going 1mm oversize valves??

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378006-supertech-valvetrain-package/
Share on other sites

I love the supertech stuff. By far the best spring available on the market today.

And the above parts won't be enough. You'll need an engine and a turbo also. The camshafts won't make any hp

I have a fully built RB26 capable of 1000hp and 9000rpms, everything sorted up I'm just worry about the head

Edited by Killer4Ever

I've looked into this before, i've only found one report that supertech's were no good. And that was to do with the spring seat from memory. They weren't all the same.

There was a thread on it on here a few weeks back.

Only bad thing i could find on them. As down the track i'll be looking for a full valve train kit for my RB26 aswell.

I think i'll be just using Ferrera valves, Tomei Type B valve springs, bronze guides and thats it to suit my application.

There was another issue with a head using Supertech stuff but I and the engine builder is not sure if it was a Supertech issue or not.

Not sure if I mentioned this before but Supertech were orignally did OEM replacement head components for all makes and models of cars and then after a while moved into the performance market. They are well priced.

Ferrea are a performance valve and always have been.

Supertech do two types of valve springs for the RB26 - one for use with the standard seats and the other to use with none (or their own).

Even though Ferrea make a great product, if you use Ferrea valves and then the springs from someone else, then the buckets from someone else again, I think you'll end up having mismatch problems. It is always better to stick 100% with the one manufacturer in these cases to ensure 100% fit with no problems

Supertech do two types of valve springs for the RB26 - one for use with the standard seats and the other to use with none (or their own).

Even though Ferrea make a great product, if you use Ferrea valves and then the springs from someone else, then the buckets from someone else again, I think you'll end up having mismatch problems. It is always better to stick 100% with the one manufacturer in these cases to ensure 100% fit with no problems

Yeah i'm fully aware of this. You should however be able to use one valve made by X manufacturer, but make sure you retain the same single manufacturer for the springs, retainers, spring seats (if needed - Type B Tomei set just uses the factory spring seat).

I'm not fully sure of what issues the guy on here had, i can't remember what was in the thread exactly. What he was using etc.

That was me who had the issue. It was a supertech rb25 hydraulic head valve spring upgrade kit. Had springs, retainers and spring seats for exhaust side. The retainers were out of spec slightly, when fitted the valve tip heights in relation to the retainers were all over the place. It was an easy fix, just had to refit the factory steel retainers and problem was solved.

Other then that the quality of everything seems great!

Not sure if it was mentioned yet, but apparently supertech makes the tomei kits, so you are getting the same bits anyway.

Valve tip to retainers all over the place.... this measurement has no relevance ever.

Valve protrusion measurement from spring base to tip of valve for help with setting the shim clearances in rb26's neo rb25's or rb25's with solid lifter conversion

with the rb25 being hydraulic the valve tip length has only one purpose which is to sit above the retainer and that's it.

Fererra parts can only be used with fererra parts, spring bases springs retainers valves valve locks etc

the hydraulic and shim buckets don't need to change to suit the valve train manufacturer

stainless steel valves will need the bronze guides or bronze sleeves otherwise the friction will ware both the guides and valves out

+1mm valve head hope you intend to get the seats re cut

10.25mm lift good chance that you will need to machine / die grind the head out. also you will need to re check the cam base circle to top of bucket clearance (18 thou intake 15 thou exhaust)

All this work you may as well get the head flow bench ported professionally and send the head to a machine shop so the job can be done right the first time

Valve tip to retainers all over the place.... this measurement has no relevance ever.

Really?

So when the bucket is pushing on the retainer then that has no relevance ever???

Interesting....

If its hydraulic rb25 the retainers should sit slightly above the collets with a large amount of valve tip sitting above both, converted to under bucket shim or rb26 the retainers should have the section to locate the shim. if its hydraulic still then obviously you were supplied the wrong retainers

Still running the hydraulic head, hence why tip height doesnt matter as its taken up by the bucket, however, yes wrong retainers appear to be the case in my situation as the majority of the tip heights were all well below the retainer when fitted.

I should have fully explained what the deal was. I was lazy as It was already in the other thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...