Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Nissan Onevia (180SX front, Silvia back) CA18DET with a few mods and i was wondering if anyone would trade their R32/R33 SKyline for it? Im looking for something pretty standard and dont mind too much if its automatic or not. Only thing i would prefer though is for it to be turbo.. but yeah..

Info/Pictures here

http://home.iprimus.com.au/alexbrezo/onevia.htm

more pictures here

www.pbase.com/1via

www.pbase.com/motorvation

---------------------

Engine Modifications

HKS GT2510 Ball Bearing Turbo

GTR Polished Front Mount Intercooler

Polished Stainless GTR Style FMIC Piping

GFB Twin Trumpet Blow Off Valve

R33 GTR Fuel Pump

R33 GTR Radiator

HKS Hyper Full Exhaust

Apexi Pod Filter

Oil Catch Can

Trust Boost Controller

Z32 Transmission Mount

Z32 Fuel Filter

Head Shroud

Metal Headgaskets

Aftermarket Actuator

Random Aftermarket Japanese Computer

All Limits Removed (Rev/Speed etc.)

S.A.R.D Radiator Cap

Suspension, Wheel and Drivetrain Modifications

17" White Enkei RP02 Racing Wheels

Bridgestone Potenza Tyres (215 Front/235 Rear)

KAAZ Mechanical LSD

Tein Coilovers (Height Adjustable)

Camber tops (Adjustable Camber)

Brass Button Clutch

SR20DET Front and Rear Brakes

Exterior Modifications

Onevia Conversion (180SX Front, Silvia Rear)

Bomex Sideskirts

Full respray in Blue Velvet Pearl (supposedly, looks very similar to standard sil blue but with pearl)

Debadged All Round

Removed Rear Spoiler

1995 180SX SR20 Front Bar

Interior Modifications

S.A.R.D Boost Gauge

Omoni Water Temperature Gauge

GReddy Multifunction Turbo Timer

Sony Doubledin CD/Mini Disc Stereo

R32 GtSt Driver and Passenger Seats

Cool Box (fridge in glove compartment)

Air Conditioning

All Electrics (p/w,p/s,p/m,c/l)

What sort of power are you making with that setup it sounds like a very fun car?

ever tested 1/4 mile?

what sort of swap are you looking for eg just a car? or cash and car or how much cash would you be after for the car? without a trade

im thinking about a change your cars looks good

Well, the car hasnt been tuned with all those mods, therefore i can only give you an estimate. I think it should be within the 250 - 270hp region hopefully with an S15 afm ~100$, GTR Injectors ~250 and a mild tune ~400. I went down to the track recently for the first time and got a couple of mid 14 passes running nearly 12 pound.Untuned, it has potential for a low 14 pass and after tune im guessing a very low 13, if not better. It runs best on 18 pound when tuned as well.

How much cash i'd be looking for is somewhere around the 14 mark.. maybe a straight swap for R32/R33, or with a cash difference depending on how modified it is and so on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...