Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey Maza, you should get yourself this:

click

Mistubishi Evo Pajero, 3.5L 24 valve V6 MIVEC, full Recaro interior from Factory and Paris Dakar racing pedigree! And you can import no probs! These things are bloody quick and you can drive on your P's and have something both cool and rare, you would be pretty hard pressed to see another of these on the road, I've never seen one in Vic in the last 10 years!

Here's a white one too

Clicky

Go on mate, DO IT!!!! Be an individual!

I want to hit you with a stick... Multiple times.

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can't really say I do, I might know a mate or two of his but not Chris himself, did he have a VLT and have custom plates or something?

nah, he said he had a cousin who had the only vl on gas with 747 in the plates...or atleast he said cousin lol could of been cousins mate...

The best first car is a shot box. Too many times do I drive around seeing a *cough* young hotty in mummies BMW/merc and I just cringe to think how much it would be to repair one of those when and I repeat when a p plater has an accident.

I had a barina as my first car and nicked a lot of things and the beauty of it was when I locked the keys in it I pried the door open and got them back haha. Not many cars will let you do that.

Get a shit box until you know how to drive!

Yeah nice generalisation. I never put a single mark on my car or had an accident as a P Plater and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

I do support getting a cheaper car to learn in however. Save the money and put it towards something more worthwhile when you're off your P's. Take it from someone who has made the mistake.

nah, he said he had a cousin who had the only vl on gas with 747 in the plates...or atleast he said cousin lol could of been cousins mate...

Well there's GAS-747 and that's owned by Paul S and the original owner of BBQ-747 is on this site and his name was Brad if that rings any bells otherwise nup unfortunately don't know anyone else even with 747 plates :P

Well there's GAS-747 and that's owned by Paul S and the original owner of BBQ-747 is on this site and his name was Brad if that rings any bells otherwise nup unfortunately don't know anyone else even with 747 plates :P

That is pretty much every 2nd VL.

Well there's GAS-747 and that's owned by Paul S and the original owner of BBQ-747 is on this site and his name was Brad if that rings any bells otherwise nup unfortunately don't know anyone else even with 747 plates :P

Ahhh yer gas 747 is the one

and get slapped with double finesthumbsup.gif

Or do what my mate did. Make up some bullshit story, and say that you have a turbod car that was purchased for you without the purchaser knowing the rules and that you would like to apply for exemption status. try that.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...