Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Probably going to be getting some.

But I am an amateur when it comes to these things and I been looking on ebay found a set.'

DGR Suspension coilovers $1190.00

And I wouldn't have a clue what they are like.

Tried researching online and there is a little info but not much about this brand.

I just want something that will be good for street driving.

Thanks guys,

Daniel Black R33 Gts-t

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/
Share on other sites

Stick with known brands. (think $2k+)

All these stories you hear about how good (insert cheap china brand here) are by people who havent used a good brand/type of shock/spring combo

Have to agree with zebra, unless there's a lot of good feedback on something new, stick with something known. Let someone else do the testing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6039942
Share on other sites

wow, we actually agree on something lol

I also add, that magazines like zoom and pi love you use HSD coilovers.....why?

Because Ben Ellis (former editor of PI) runs otomoto, and they are the guys who are the distributors for HSD, so there is a vested intrest.

Note: HSD by all means are a decent unit, but still no where near the quality of a set of Bilstein BSS9's or Aragosta etc, but at 1/4 the price.

Also be wary of any magazine "review" on car stuff, with the laws the way they are, they simply cannot say a product is absolute shit without the risk of being sued for deformation.

Perfect example of rubbish products being reviewed as "good" are the Pro-comp brand of china v8 parts.

In which the aftermarket cylinder heads dont line up properly, the "billet" distributor shafts are bent and snap after a few hours etc.

but these products are often used in "project cars", what they dont say is that they had to try 3 diffent sets of rods and a billion hours of machining to get them to work.

Any way

/rant

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6039953
Share on other sites

$3,500k just recently not installed, but with the works!!!

Happy as a pig in the preverbial with em. Bilstien, Eibach Whiteline mix (SK).

If your short on funds then do the BC coilovers for $1200. Good entry level and makes a difference.

IMHO that is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6047639
Share on other sites

As a Side note for lulz...when those Pedders coilovers were first released they were $3k.

As soon as word got out that they were rebranded the price halved overnight.

Jason - I would be happy paying 1600 for them, you said yourself they are a decent unit and with the better springs that pedders fit would be quite nice.

And yeah...i will never got to a Pedders workshop....ever

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6048717
Share on other sites

Jason - I would be happy paying 1600 for them, you said yourself they are a decent unit and with the better springs that pedders fit would be quite nice.

And yeah...i will never got to a Pedders workshop....ever

That is what i'd prob get when need some later, but glad I am not the only one to feel that way bout the workshop.

ALSO

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1564wt_1163

Skyline spares are selling this

Edited by J'son
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6049014
Share on other sites

$3,500k just recently not installed, but with the works!!!

Happy as a pig in the preverbial with em. Bilstien, Eibach Whiteline mix (SK).

If your short on funds then do the BC coilovers for $1200. Good entry level and makes a difference.

IMHO that is.

Im really looking around the $1000 - $1500 mark because im not using the car for anything out of the ordinary drive.

Will have to look into BC or pedders

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6050772
Share on other sites

im running HSD's (HR) in my stagea, very happy. spring rates are abit high for canberra (10/8) but im getting some lower rate springs from otomoto.

from what ive heard in the industry, the pedders gear are re-brand BC's (BR)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6051071
Share on other sites

And are the BR/BC/Pedders ones decent enough though guys? I hear some good things bout them, and never had issues with pedders equipment before... Sure if wanna spend double the price can get something doubly as good, but for the price, and the difference between the price of standard lowered shocks and spring, these would still be a fair enough upgrade right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6054978
Share on other sites

for 1200 bucks you get what you pay for...like I said all the reports of them being REALLY great are by people who have never used anything and have gone from leaky 15 year old standard stuff to new stuff.

I am looking at getting some for the Snoarer, but I dare say I'll end up with a set of $3k+ Tein RA's or Aragosta's etc.

As they say an once of handling is worth a pound of horesepower..But I do like going rediculously fast through corners.

Im sure the BC's are at the better end of the cheap scale (I think that makes sense lol)

But out of them HSD HR's would be my pick for a good budget setup (HSD make OEM shocks for a few car manufacturers)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378741-coilovers/#findComment-6055019
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...