Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so today I compression tested again so we have readings before and after the head gasket swap. Keeping in mind different compression testers have been used each time and todays tests were with A LOT healthier battery

Todays results:

Cylinder 1 being closest to radiator and 6 closest to firewall:

1. 170 2. 170 3. 162 4. 150 5. 167 6. 165

So cylinder 4 is down. I added a cap of oil and then got a reading of 172

Initial test carried out by mechanic before HG replacement:

No sure which holes they reffered to as 1 and 6 but im assuming its the reverse as what I've done?

1. 155 2. 160 3. 135 4. 145. 5. 160 6. 160.

Where too from here?

If it had a blown headgasket before and oil mixed with coolant. It will take ages for that oil to get out of the water galleries. You could flush the system 20 times and still not get it out. I'm betting it's just the old crap working it's way up to the top. It will ALWAYS end up at the cap and collect there. Try adding mineral turps to the system as that can help flush it through but unless the car is overheating and there is oil mixing through ALL the coolant, I'd say you have nothing to worry about

Is the oil milky?

No sign of water in the oil at all....

If it had a blown headgasket before and oil mixed with coolant. It will take ages for that oil to get out of the water galleries. You could flush the system 20 times and still not get it out. I'm betting it's just the old crap working it's way up to the top. It will ALWAYS end up at the cap and collect there. Try adding mineral turps to the system as that can help flush it through but unless the car is overheating and there is oil mixing through ALL the coolant, I'd say you have nothing to worry about

I like your theory but when the old headgasket was removed there were no visual signs of leaks or any issues on it anywhere according to simon. When the headgasket fails and starts mixing oil and coolant is it very easy to tell by looking at the old gasket once its out of the car?

Can someone run me through how I can flush the entire block and cooling system? Ive had a mechanic do it but god knows how well he did it... Im thinking radiator out and clean all that and run a hose into one of the lines and flush it for a good 10 minutes ect ect....

No sign of water in the oil at all....

I like your theory but when the old headgasket was removed there were no visual signs of leaks or any issues on it anywhere according to simon. When the headgasket fails and starts mixing oil and coolant is it very easy to tell by looking at the old gasket once its out of the car?

Can someone run me through how I can flush the entire block and cooling system? Ive had a mechanic do it but god knows how well he did it... Im thinking radiator out and clean all that and run a hose into one of the lines and flush it for a good 10 minutes ect ect....

The oil sticks to the cast iron, flushing with a hose won't get it out. It needs to be heated, mixed with the water, then when it condenses it will collect at the cap

Just keep cleaning it off each morning and keep monitoring it day to day. Eventually it will become less and less. If it gets worse, take it in to have it checked

Surely there has to be a way I can give it a good flush?

Spoke to one of the techs at MTQ today in regards to if its possible for the turbo to mix the oil and coolant. He said it is possible but hes never seen it happen. Only way to tell he said would be to remove the turbo cap off one of the water lines and attach a hose to the other end and turn it on and see if water comes out either of the oil lines.... thoughts?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
    • Hello everyone, I am happy to join you.
    • Whereabouts are you, that looks exactly like Akira's old car....
×
×
  • Create New...