Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, unfortunately the time has come to sell my gtr, it will be sorely missed. i bought it a couple of years ago, been using it as a daily driver and have loved every minute of it, here are the details:

1995 R33 GTR V-Spec

VIN - 6U900BCNR33002582

ENG - RB26050537A

Km's - 102,500

comes with Reg and RWC

Price - I'm after $35,000 or an 06 wrx or similar plus cash (need at least 14k)

Contact - [email protected], PM, or 0408 302 517

Gearbox

- New 4800 pound "Full Monty" jim berry clutch

- 1st 2nd and 3rd gears are cut and cryo genically frozen for added strength

Engine/running gear (just been rebuilt by Protek in preston, still running the motor in - all items listed as new are less than 500km's old)

- Apexi power fc with hand controller

- Blitz boost controller

- HKS exhaust from turbo back

- high flow cat

- New Twin HKS GT SS turbos

- JJR cam gears

- new oil and water pump

- new timing belt

- all 14 engine hoses replaced with JJR silicone kit

- 54mm aluminium race radiator (standard radiator is 18mm)

- HKS step 1 cams

- twin apexi power intake

- New CT Forged pistons (86.5mm)

- New Eagle Forged Con Rods

- New RacePace Engine Bearings all round

- New Tomei Metal Head Gasket

- Blitz power meter

Chassis

- 6 point roll cage which can be easily taken out

- Drift racing harness for both driver and passenger,

- Tein adjustable front suspension and Nismo rear suspension

Body/Wheels

- Project mu pads front and rear

- 17 x 10 gram light weight wheels

- carbon fibre aero bonnet

Interior

- Momo steering wheel

- Bride racing seat

- Pioneer Head unit

- Kenwood 6" Splits

- Pioneer 2-way rear

post-72739-0-66625800-1317621433_thumb.jpg post-72739-0-58043500-1317621476_thumb.jpg post-72739-0-54915400-1317621423_thumb.jpg post-72739-0-82958500-1317621442_thumb.jpg

post-72739-0-71817100-1317621486_thumb.jpg post-72739-0-19781900-1317621401_thumb.jpg post-72739-0-27362300-1317621461_thumb.jpg post-72739-0-70871600-1317621412_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,, an unfortunate turn of events means i will not have work as of jan (if you know of any teaching positions in the northern suburbs please let me know!). this has the carry on effect that if i dont sell the car or bike i will lose the house. so untill the bike sells, the car is a meagre $27500, this does not include a roadworthy as it needs a few standard parts i dont have, RWC can be negotiated for a few extra reddies. the car has over $30k in aftermarket parts/work alone and is running a basically new drive system. in case anyone is interested, the bike (as seen in avatar) is going for $5K.until the car sells. would potentially look at a trade plus cash my way - will be after a daily driver thats pretty much standard.

just realised location wasn't there, the car is located in Whittlesea, VIC - if any of the mods could ad the whole [VIC] thing to the topic title i'd appreciate it.

Edited by Briggs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-6156937
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys, have sold the bike so the car doesn't need to sell quite so badly. thanks for the offers though. It is still for sale but the price is back to 30,000 without RWC or 32,500 with. in either case it still comes with 11 months rego.

cheers,

Paul

still open to trade offers - cars or bikes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-6185255
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I think you could be asking to much, but people these days want everything for nothing.

Have seen 2 sold in sydney very cheap in the last few weeks, seems like a nice car with good mods but may be lucky to get 30k in current market.

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-6227664
Share on other sites

My son sold his R33 GTR stock for an amount somewhat less than yours. It was in wonderful condition.

Looking over the quality fruit you have and whilst it's performing at optimum tune, you are perfectly within your rights to hold out for $28K for a car that is both a street and track weapon!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-6228741
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My son sold his R33 GTR stock for an amount somewhat less than yours. It was in wonderful condition.

Looking over the quality fruit you have and whilst it's performing at optimum tune, you are perfectly within your rights to hold out for $28K for a car that is both a street and track weapon!

cool story bro. :)

free bump, tough looking car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-6244826
Share on other sites

hey guys, got a new job on monday!:banana: As a result i'm now in the market for a z4 (will be doing over a thousand k's a week and the gtr just isn't suitable). so make an offer, anything within the realms of 27k will be accepted.just want it gone sooner rather than later.

Edited by Briggs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378974-r33-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-6255081
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...