Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People,

I'm selling the following as I am now parting the car:

1) HKS Type R Intercooler (BRAND NEW in the box, havent even opened it). They are RRP over $1700. They have been engineered to maintain efficiency on applications rated up to 800HP. Very thick core, 700 X 304 X 103mm.

Asking: $1500 FIRM

p_hks-intercooler-kits-toyota-supra-turbo-1993-1998-r-type-.jpg

2) Defi Gauges (BRAND NEW, two taken out to look out and trial fit, the rest still new in the box) Comes with 4 gauges, Boost, Water Temp, Oil pressure and oil temp all in RED. Also comes with the Defi-link advance control unit.

Asking $1200 FIRM

600x450-2011051600004.jpg

350x600-2010012100010.gif

3) Volk Rays TE37 in BRONZE- (Used for only 2000km) EXCELLENT CONDITION, Not a single mark on them, built date in 2011. Measuring at 18x10.5 +15 all round, comes with Falken FK452, also around 2000km. These wheels in the classic bronze cost more then the SLs beleive it or not, but i do prefer the classic look.

Asking $3900 FIRM

dfdfsfsf.jpg

4) Tein Monoflex Coilovers (Near new, used for around 2000kms) Part Num: GSP72-F1SS1 (BCNR33)

Developed to be the future of axis of sport shock absorbers, used at circuit or on winding road. Its sport performance is sure to give a mental uplift to drivers. To meet various situations and to enable precise setting, Mono Flex has lots of know-how and technology poured in, such as newly designed platform and /or MSV (Micro Speed Valve).

FEATURES:

- The forefront of sport shock absorber, which can well perform at circuit.

- Use of MSV (micro speed valve) improves steering response and traction.

- Full-length ride height adjustment feature allows separate adjustment of the ride height and the pre-load.

- 16 levels of damping force adjustment (compression and rebound together).

- Teflon coating for rust prevention.

- Newly designed mono-tube platform.

- Pillow ball upper mounts are included.

- Compatible with EDFC.

- Available for overhaul.

Asking $1800 FIRM

Pictures coming soon

5) Quest R33 Tail lights - Custom made straight from Japan. Looks fantastic and really stands out from the rest. Cost me abit over $600. LED only on the brake lights, indicators and reverse lights have been left normal as i think it looks abit chat with it all LED.

Asking $500 FIRM

IMG_0615.jpg

6) BRAND NEW HKS T04Z Full Kit (RRP OVER $8000) - Comes with everything, manifold, wastegate, piping, turbo, turbo cover, dump pipe, etc.

Part Number is:

11003-an003

Exhaust Housing:

A/R 0.81

Asking $6700

IMG_3641.jpg

IMG_3639.jpg

IMG_3635.jpg

Edited by INLINE6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379039-quality-japanese-parts/
Share on other sites

Sorry not willing to separate the gauges.

Just to confirm, intercooler is CORE ONLY.

HKS only sells the core when it comes to GT-Rs and if you want the extra bits it will cost around the 500 mark. The champs at HKS advised that the standard pipe is fine to work with the cooler itself.

i ordered one of these coolers a few months back, cost me more than that, and i had to get it from japan, cost me over 250 in frieght, so thats cheap as!!! good luck with the sale mate

Bump for the Qest Led Lamps !! :thumbsup:

I know the Qest company owner quite well and these are quality lights and he only uses the best quality Japanese Leds.

Housings are genuine Nissan so they are a perfect fit !!

Plus they look bloody good.

Bump for the Qest Led Lamps !! :thumbsup:

I know the Qest company owner quite well and these are quality lights and he only uses the best quality Japanese Leds.

Housings are genuine Nissan so they are a perfect fit !!

Plus they look bloody good.

You know the owner...

Pls enquire about ones that look that good for R32 very interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...