Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo Afm ,

waxracing

By waxracing,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
Posted

Can some one put to bed the rumors that a nismo afm for a rb26 is just a stock one with z32 internals ??

Im not sure how to go about my build and I have a set of stock 26 afm, I will just turn them into nismo if this is the case

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379119-nismo-afm/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

They are not identical. The resolution/calibration is slightly different due to the housing size.

Think of putting a stock AFM element into a 100mm body - the AFM will give the same reading, but there is LOTS more air as it's calibration hasn't been altered to account for it.

If they simply put a Z32 into a stock housing, it wouldn't work and would read markedly different - hence Nismo are a tad different as they've been calibrated however they are set.

Someone a 3-4 years back did post a graph of the two against voltages, wasn't huge differences - but they were there.

(sorry i can't recall whom it was).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379119-nismo-afm/#findComment-6044585
Share on other sites
waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I understand that the flow in a z32 and the same sensor in a gtr sized afm would be different and the vq map would be different. I was just wondering if the z32 sensor in the rb26 afm gave the same vq map as the nismo units

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379119-nismo-afm/#findComment-6044622
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

That's the one Paul :D

Without actually going and testing it, I doubt anyone would know.

Not read anywhere about someone putting a Z32 into a stock housing, they just buy an adaptor kit to fit the AFM. Far easier and cheaper than chopping up 4 AFMs.

There is only around a $150 price difference between 2x Nismo and 2x Z32. Factory in adaptor kit & pods to suit a Z32 and there isn't much in it at all over going Nismo ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379119-nismo-afm/#findComment-6044811
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...