Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

have a rattle/type vibration sound,the sound is like coming from the right side/turbo,it doesnt sound like an exhaust leak. when stating up when cold and only does it as i rev it up to 2000rpm and as soon as its dropping back half way down to normal revs it makes a like rattle drrrr vibration sound and as its warming up it goes away slowly till warmed up and then no more of that sound.

any ideas or anyone experience this?

Edited by RamR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379417-cold-start-rattling-sound/
Share on other sites

It wouldnt be an exhaust leak if it is only when cold. generally an engine that rattles when cold means its on its way out :/ check to see if it is bottom end. if so bad news. top end generally in my opinon isnt to bad its normally just because oil hasnt reached there yet. my old commodore had noisy lifters when cold. flogged the tits out of her for 40000k and still couldnt kill it. went through 2 gearboxs and the new owner gives it a hard time and just cant do it in. good ol ecotecs

na its not the bottom end plus like i said only when cold for 5 or so minutes then goes away....sounds more to the right side from the cam cover near there.....im pretty sure if it was the bottom end it would not stop.

i hadnt done it as the person said the engine was recoed so thought it wouldve been done or maybe not and only done 20,000ks and so thought not to touch it as i heard every 100,000k to change it...i even took the oil cap off to hear if it was coming from inside but it sounds more external.

as it warms up it goes away when its getting warmer to its normal temp doesnt do it gone after 5 min or so.

ill post up a video soon,ill try and get the sound of it clear.

Edited by RamR33

So does it do it just when you crank the engine? Or are you saying its a rattle at a certain RPM when its cold?

If the engine was re-con'd then yeah it was most likely changed, but it seems fairly common for RB idler and tensioner pulleys to be noisy.

Does it sound like this? (this was mine) Cambelt change fixed it.

Yeah thats the sound mate on the video like the wen the revs come down u can hear it more like grrrr brrrr soundss identical spot on.

it started to do it after the service aswell,could it be the oil,,all i no is he put some martini racing oil 15w-50

wat is that buddy?

Edited by RamR33

Nah. Mine sounded like that for 1.5 years before i got the courage to change everything myself haha.

It wont be cheap. The parts alone will be over $300 depending who you know. Then labour, probly 3-4 hours. it took me 6, going slow and taking my time as id never done a cambelt before.

If i was you id chase down the history of the motor.<BR><BR>mine makes <U>exactly</U> this sound but only after having the cambelt , tensioner, pulley etc done.<BR>its actually a pretty common noise from the kevlar cam belts. It often stops after a while as the belt kinda beds in i guess. Mine has pretty much stopped now.<BR><BR>Having said that tho it can also be the sound of one of those components on its last legs and a cambelt failure isnt far away = fully lunched motor. Avoid like the plague.... <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt=:yucky: src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/yucky.gif"> <BR><BR>has ur motor always made this sound or only just started to make this sound? if it has just started then its most likely time to do the '100k service'. If not it might be the noise of the kevlar belt if it was replaced in recent history...make sure tho.<BR><BR>Also make sure the water pump has been done. It should have been done at the same time as the timing belt n they are known to let go n also can be a major problem... (obviously)

Edited by jjman

not quite why the tex shat itself after i edited-

here it is unadultered.

If i was you id chase down the history of the motor. mine makes exactly this sound too, but only after having the cambelt , tensioner, pulley etc done. Its actually a pretty common noise from the kevlar cam belts. It often stops after a while as the belt kinda beds in i guess. Mine has pretty much stopped now. Having said that tho it can also be the sound of one of those components on its last legs and a cambelt failure isnt far away = fully lunched motor. Avoid like the plague....

has ur motor always made this sound or only just started to make this sound? if it has just started then its most likely time to do the '100k service'. If not it might be the noise of the kevlar belt if it was replaced in recent history...make sure tho. Also make sure the water pump has been done. It should have been done at the same time as the timing belt n they are known to let go n also can be a major problem... (obviously)

na it just started after i done a service and changed basicly everything,coils,spark plugs,oil filter,engine oil ect ect and after the engine oil service i notice that sound never done it before until one week or so ago.only had the car for 2/3 month.its not horrible sounding or anything but just find it strange when it warms up it goes away slowly and then the engine sounds fine,very strange.

yeah mine was exactly the same with the change based on temp... and most people note this. General consensus is timing belt noise.

cant imagine being able to hurt the belt unless you are limiter bashing like a madman or mistook your taco for a gtr one :P

seriously, work out when the timing belt (and water pump was done) they (and the rest of the 100k service stuff) are meant to be done every 100k or 10 years. Which ever comes first.

i was only 50k past the last 100k service when my water pump died (caught it straight away so no damage done). But after reading/translating the japanese on the 100k service sticker i was able to work out it was on 10yrs since the job was actually done...

All i no is nizpro built it and was recoed,how do i no when the last time the belt was chaned or anything even tho ive changed basicly everything myself besides fuel filter lol.

I even took it to mechanics who just work on skylines and there like tuff engine bla bla bla and im like u sure nothing wrong or anything and they go yea just ya wiperblades need changing lol.

  • 13 years later...

So my rb is finally having more problems. 2 issues here but I'm here to just to mainly discuss the rattle noise.

The other day when I turned on the car and when I take off or go in reverse, there is a temporary rattle noise but when I cruise, boost, idle it's completely fine no rattle whatsoever. I've also done all the servicing, all the health checks you can think of and it all passes with flying colours. 

Also the rattle doesn't increase with rpm, it's only at a very certain rpm (slightly above 1,100rpm). My other car also has the same issue every once in a while. Changed the oil recently, no difference.

Even took my oil to a lab and everything was quite good surprisingly. Timing belt changed a while ago to. Had the car on the hoist and can't see anything obvious. Tightened a couple of nuts on the exhaust manifold a couple of months ago.

2 different clips uploaded. One of them was supposed to another issue but I'll save that for another time.

Thought I'd see if anyone had this same noise before, it's a bit hard to diagnose while it's intermittent.

If I'm not mistaken, I think I had this a while back but can't remember exactly.

I was thinking if it's doable I'll get someone to hold the throttle cable at 1,100rpm and hopefully it replicates the sound.

Edited by silviaz
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...