Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have both my GT-Rs for sale.

#1 Is a lightly modded 1989 model, I imported it from Japan. Has rebuilt turbos (steel wheel ball bearing) from Croydon Autosport. Stock except for cat back exhaust and HK pods. I think it has a dual plate clutch, its always been pretty grabby to use. The water pump is leaking, have purchased a new one, stock rims, tyres are getting low. One flat tyre (from sitting in the garage). It had around 180kw ATW.

#2 is a Garage Saurus 1989 model. No idea what the turbos are. Garage Saurus ECU, Trust intercooler, SARD piping, Z32 AFM, bigger injectors, Full Whteline suspension, had 299kw ATW. Mid brace, front strut brace, HKS boost controller, finned diff, fibveglass bonnet, lots of things that are customised about this car. It unfortuantely met up with a cheesewire restraining barrier on Ginninderra/Coulter drive, which went up the bonnet and nearly cut me in half (at only 40km/h). Blundstone boots should not be worn when changing gears - sole came off and got caught under acc pedal. Anyway, it is rolling, two rims damaged, but is not repairable. Plan was to donor it into the first car, and sell the remainder.

Some spares, disks, suspension.

I also have, in the box, a brand new unused full power FC unit including hand controller and boost controller.

Unfortunately I have to go overseas urgently, and it is totally uneconomic to store them. $250 a month, in the rain.

Happy to answer any questions.

Would prefer to sell as one unit, Im happy to take offers. If i dont get a reasonable ofer thens its probably ebay.; not a lot of time.

post-8901-0-49154400-1318113683_thumb.jpg

post-8901-0-71197900-1318113705_thumb.jpg

post-8901-0-82481800-1318113767_thumb.jpg

post-8901-0-15913700-1318113785_thumb.jpg

post-8901-0-43328700-1318113807_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379478-fs-two-r32-gtrs-in-canberra/
Share on other sites

May as well put a price on it.

I have NFI what they are worth at the moment.

With the transplant in place, the good car would probably go for $25k plus strip the other for parts.

But i dont have the time, so will take the best offer in the next 2 weeks.

Or Ebay it with no reserve

yeah, no way will you get 25k for a near stock 89 GTR

Yes, correct, I know that.

What would a Garage Saurus powered R32 go for?

Add in the extra gear stripped from the shell that is AOK for spares/sale. EG Seats, bonnet, guard, lights etc

Add in a Power FC plus bits (not needed necessarily)

Less the cost/time/effort to transplant the.

...

... somewhere above $14, Id say...

a few jap parts still doesnt make it anymore than a 22 year old GTR

Espesially when its pretty much an un0known.

You said yourself you dont know what turbos/clutch etc are in it, and its a standard motor that has been running 300rkws for god knows how many years.

Plus if you swap everything over the car is no longer matching #s etc

I don't mean to sound harsh but for anyone to buy it they would be expecting to do a complete engine rebuild etc

When you can pay 19k to get a 90s R32 GTR with a fresh engine and -7 turbos new clutch etc.

Like I said not trying to sound harsh or shit can your cars etc

But they are only worth what people are willing to pay and as John said there is no market, So if you want to get rid of them quick they will need to be very cheap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...