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Putting R33 Gtr Into Rwd ?

tricstar
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tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

Below is a method recommended to me as an alternative to pulling the front drive shaft out, for dyno runs, etc :whistling: For an R33 GTR

Locate the air bleed plug over the drivers feet, this is normally used to bleed the ATTESA system (disconnect plug, turn key to ON, pump runs flat out so you can get under and crack the bleed nipples).

However, if you disconnect this plug, START the car, then hit the brake pedal 5x times (just keep pressing it until 4WD light starts flashing). This tells the ATTESA controller to go into 2WD mode (it is one of the two methods outlined in the 33GTR manual, the other is dropping the shaft).

If the 4WD light starts flashing, you're in 2WD mode. If you start rolling and get a SOLID 4WD light, then that has thrown an error (most likely didn't push brake pedal enough times).

To go back into 4WD mode, simply turn car off and reconnect plug.

Is that method going to be safe for the transfer case, has anyone used this method for any period of time with no transfer issues??

thoughts

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Hadouken
Hadouken

have done it multiple times on mine (vspec) transfer case still seems fine Oh I see what you mean no! Mine was still putting lines down with it in rwd so i presume it is working

Ben C34
Ben C34

Skid vids

Hadouken
Hadouken

gone down the 1/4 yet? its been a few years

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bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/109111-duncans-torque-splitter-in-an-awd-stagea/page__p__5341785__hl__attesa__fromsearch__1#entry5341785

Some previous discussion, I think there was some more, will try find teh threads later :thumbsup:

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

I have done this. You can hear it bleed off. As op said it is outlined in the manual also, Toshi advised me on this method stating that the this is how the guys in Japan do it when they do dyno runs.

Another thing, when you do the method named above, if you keep an eye on the fw torque gauge, it does not move.

Pistol -Pete you have no evidence backing up you're one word shoot.

I think it's fine. How about you run it full time and let us know if it's safe :).

pistol-pete Veteran

pistol-pete

Posted
Posted
Pistol -Pete you have no evidence backing up you're one word shoot.

I think it's fine. How about you run it full time and let us know if it's safe :).

i leave that up to you guys to ruin your transfer cases

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

i leave that up to you guys to ruin your transfer cases

o..k..

I've running driving my Stagea around in RWD for nearly a year with some hard laps of Barbs and several skidz thrown in, my transfer case is fine.

I have tested on a hoist and there is NO PRELOAD.

This works so well that we've actually dyno'd cars over here with this method and I've even installed a switch so I don't have to fish under the dash for the plug.

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

Thats really good that someone has been doing it constantly. Glad to hear its going good bubba.

My theory is, the jap's know these cars, why on earth would it be in the manual if it wasnt safe? Also I heard that this method is used when the car is being towed.

Thanks pistol pete. I will keep running my car in rwd for dyno days. And I will enjoy it. :D

  • 3 weeks later...
33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

this is quiet literally a 15 minute job. Drop the front sharf. all up its 9 bolts. 4 drive shaft bolts, 10 or 12mm if i remember correctly, 4 brace bolts 14mm and 1 10mm bolt that holds a little bracket near the brace which fixes the clutch line to the car and then you remove the front shaft, no bleeding required. We only have access to rwd dyno's here in CQ that arent charging 200+ per hr for a bare machine so alot of us do it up here.

Cheers, Allan Shaw

  • 4 weeks later...
GTR260 Proficient

GTR260

Posted
Posted

o..k..

I've running driving my Stagea around in RWD for nearly a year with some hard laps of Barbs and several skidz thrown in, my transfer case is fine.

I have tested on a hoist and there is NO PRELOAD.

This works so well that we've actually dyno'd cars over here with this method and I've even installed a switch so I don't have to fish under the dash for the plug.

Hey mate, which of the two wires do you put the switch on?

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

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Hey mate, which of the two wires do you put the switch on?

its under the dash on the drivers side, near the door, there will be 2 connectors with 1 wire in and out each, to work out which one it is, with the ignition on disconnect 1 at a time and listen for the transfer pump , obviously the one that triggers the pump is the right one..

Its pretty easy to just disconnect the connector, I don't think its worth putting a switch on it..

Also not sure what type of diff you have, but if its electronic at all when you do this it will also take out the diff so it will be a single pegger >_< if its mechanical no worries

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I reckon it's well worth putting a switch in :P

I also use it as a visual indicator (missile switch) to tell me whether the circuit is complete or not as if you unplug the plug and then don't press the brake pedal 5 times when you start the car, as soon as you start rolling the system will throw up an error and go into a 50/50 split which WILL destroy things if you drive around too much like that.

  • 1 month later...
fomby639 Enthusiast

fomby639

Posted
Posted

is it possible to install a DCV with a solenoid after the pump to return pressure back to tank? my basic understanding of the system is that the more pressure the pump supplies to the front, the more torque goes to the front, so if u make all the pressure go back to the tank, wouldn't it be safly is rwd mode?

  • 6 months later...

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